Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Hello, here is my next OOB model under construction. All comments/criticisms welcome. I am somewhat disappointed with my seat belts and buckles. I think I will redo the seat that does not have the pilot. I also read the crotch ejection handles should not be there. Is that the case? Edited January 20, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) The construction took quite sometime but I think I am mostly done. I used trumpeter's riveter to create rivet details. Edited January 20, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Constructing the photo-etched nozzle parts was not difficult but time consuming. There was a lot of puttying, sanding, rescribing, and rivet remaking around the wings and fins Edited January 20, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) I used Alclad metalizers for the metallic sections. I used Future as an underlay to create a smooth surface for Alclad. Worked very well. After the base color, I used different shades and colors for some post-shading. I wanted to preserve the bare metallic look of Alclad without covering with future or other coats. Hence, applied a water-color wash, instead of an oil wash. I thought the wash was too dark, so I redid the wash with a slightly lighter shade (not shown). Edited January 20, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Some further puttying, and rescribing was necessary to create some details. Unfortunately, I am not well knowledgeable about the accuracy of these details so a lot (if not all) of what I do is not correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Finally, I moved onto priming the model with surfacer 1200. This is my first time using this product and I have to say it is amazing. Once dry, I go over the surface with an old piece of cotton cloth and/or 2000 grid sandpaper. I shamelessly stole all of these ideas from the great builders here (especially Honza) and folks on Turkish modeling forums. I just learned that there should be a gap between where outer side of the engine intakes meets the body. Was totally unaware of it... I tried to fill inside the gun hole with some putty and gave shape to it. The primer showed a little gap in the line joining the upper and lower body around the gun, which I fixed later (not shown). Edited January 20, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 My biggest dilemma in this model was to preshade or not to preshade! If not done properly, I believe preshading ruins an otherwise good model. My observation also is that people are doing a great job with postshading rather than preshading nowadays. Again, Honza is a prime example of this. I try my best with postshading usually, but I have always been interested in giving preshading a try. Narita's fantastic models always made me think that I should give preshading a chance. Well, I did... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Once preshading was complete, I first try to fill in the panels using a 0.3mm airsbrush. Next, I followed with a coarser airbrush to dim the starkness of the preshade. I was initially very disappointed with the outcome. Unfortunately, it did not turn out the way I wanted it to be. Nonetheless, with some postshading, I think I was able to salvage some of it back. My conclusion is that I did not like the preshading that much. This is more a reflection of my inability to do a good job, rather than the technique itself (there are lots of nicely done models with convincing preshading). I think next time I will simply do primer, base colors, and postshading. I am still at a loss, so I would appreciate your thoughts and comments about this hot topic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 I am now in the middle of applying some dirt to the underside, and finishing up the top side's dark grey. I am using Gunze aqueous colors H307 and H308 but the difference is not very discernible I think due to the shades. Maybe this is a good thing or a bad thing, I am not sure. The next colors will be green and black and they will lay down over most of the grey. I hope to spend quite sometime getting the camouflage right with postshading. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 hi! impressive work!! I find your preshading work very nice! i usually combine preshading and postshading.... :) bye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Very impressive work, with lot of pictures! i like it a lot! ARC is great place for learning!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Checksix Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Keep on Zidane, keep on u do a fantastic job on your Eagle ! 1. Your cockpit painting is perfectly neat ! 2. Don't worry about the the rivets, no one will recount them and your work is just great ! 3. I would like to preshade as well as u did it... 4. On the japanese Eagles there is a strange phenomenon (humidity ?) who gives the panel lines in a lighter shade that the panels themselves... it's quite obvious on the "grey" eagles who are soon to enter IRAN... but anyway you're giving us one of the beautifullest AGR bird ever seen on ARC. Just for your motivation here is one Hasegawa DJ in 72 scale..... C6 Edited January 20, 2010 by Checksix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 really nice work, I especially like your metal back end work On the real planes, I don't recall seeing the thin styrene strips on the radome that you added? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Checksix Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) really nice work, I especially like your metal back end workOn the real planes, I don't recall seeing the thin styrene strips on the radome that you added? Ken, The styrene strips on the radome are correct for the upgraded J and DJ Eagles. I remember that WOLFAPCK DESIGN add a new radome like this in their JASDF Eagle update set... Best Regards, C6 Edited January 20, 2010 by Checksix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Ken,The styrene strips on the radome are correct for the upgraded J and DJ Eagles. I remember that WOLFAPCK DESIGN add a new radome like this in their JASDF Eagle update set... Best Regards, C6 Ahh, OK, great, didn't know that - thanks C6! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I also read the crotch ejection handles should not be there. Is that the case? Yes, it should not be there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 4. On the japanese Eagles there is a strange phenomenon (humidity ?) who gives the panel lines in a lighter shade that the panels themselves... it's quite obvious on the "grey" eagles who are soon to enter IRAN... but anyway you're giving us one of the beautifullest AGR bird ever seen on ARC. this is visible not only on Eagles but on all JASDF birds. In order to avoid corrosion the panel lines are respried quite often at squadron level. that is why they looks lighter than the surrounding camouflage. and yes, this is a GREAT project! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Thank you all for your comments and the fantastic pieces of information. I might try to go over the panel lines with a lighter shade (will have to keep it extremely thin). Is this usually the case on the upper side of the fuselage, or is applied to the underside as well? Also, I think I will take another shot at the seats. Is there a way to create the following seat cushions? I vaguely remember someone here using epoxy or bluetack for the seat cushions of an F-14 or F-18 (can't remember exactly). Before it dried, I think they made the ribs and details etc. I will much appreciate your help. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infideon Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 your f-15 is fantastic...! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I might try to go over the panel lines with a lighter shade (will have to keep it extremely thin). Is this usually the case on the upper side of the fuselage, or is applied to the underside as well? I saw it on many lower wings too, can't really tell you about the lower part of the fuselage, it6 is not visible on most of the photos. What is true is that these lighter panel lines are not everywhere, just where corrosion if feared, a panel opened then resealed, etc.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Miroslav Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Wow! Fantastic work, indeed :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Miroslav Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 (edited) Wow! Fantastic work, indeed :) Edited January 21, 2010 by Miroslav Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honza K. Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 very nice work men! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Very nice work so far. Looks great! Nice job on the pre-shading! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Thank you all for your encouragement. After the grey color, I masked off the sections that needed to remain grey. I then applied the main colors of green and black free hand. I am using Mr. Color Acrylic paints thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner. Unfortunately, with free hand I could not get a clean and sharp separation between the colors. Moreover, as seen below between the grey and black, I sometimes ran into oversprays that just don't look nice. I may have to fix them at some point. Edited February 1, 2010 by zidane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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