Jack-Swiss Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Nice job! Cheers :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 The JFS (jet fuel starter) has presented me an opportunity I wasn’t expecting. For in flight posing, the stand has to be a consideration, and I originally was going to sacrifice one or both of the engine exhaust for a stand. Well, enter the grille less F-15E JFS. In 48th scale, the nested tubes for the JFS are kind of hard to do in scale, even with metal tubing. What I did was first drill out the grill (5/32nd†drill bit, in case anyone needs to know). I had a set of aluminum and brass tubing that exactly nested, but together had almost a 1mm tube wall. Kind of thick for 1/48th scale sheet metal. So, I took my 7/64th inch Dremel drill bit, and began drilling out the inner brass tube—it had an inner diameter of 3/32nd in. Originally, this was to round out the end the tube cutter had kind of caved in. But, as I drilled it out, it was clear the 1/8th†bit was drilling out the inside of the brass tube! I drilled in about ¼â€, then filed down the edge so it was slanted (the inner tube of the real JFS has a more angled look than the outer tube). I did the same drilling out of the larger aluminum outer tube, this time with a 9/64†bit. The individual results are below, And here are the two tubes together. Drilling things out gives the tubes that miniscule diameter difference at the exhaust end the real thing has, while keeping the overall strength of the two nested tubes. Next step involves JB Weld and anchoring the exhaust tubes forever into the fuselage. I first set it with CA glue, then slathered the JB Weld all over it. Now I know how a proctologist feels…. I also too took the sage advice given above and closed the inlet vents/door on the top side. Work on the plastic extending the inlet ramps down continues. It is simply a matter of getting one edge right, then working on the next edge without interfering with the previous fit. Here is one done enough for epoxy putty to do the rest—still need to add hinge points and those weird circles on top that are visible when the ramp is down. Finally, the aircrew has arrived. Pilot, GiB and their heads (to be attached last). Thought it would be interesting to have the two different colors of g-suits, one guy with the Nomex tucked in, the other out. I'm really pleased with the visors, which have a flat black frame top, gloss black lens covered over with a layer of Tamiya smoke. Of course, the pilot got the nice desrt colored one, 'cuz he's the pilot... I will have to put in the seats, then canopy frame, then the figures (GiB’s arm rests on the canopy frame), then heads, then canopy to keep it all protected. I'm really kind of pi$$ed at Revell on the canopy issue. The kit one came broken off the front left side sprue, so it was all hosed up. I ordered a replacement, and got the exact same issue. Since both Revell canopies have a sprue mark, I’m tempted to use a cut up Hasegawa D model canopy for the glass part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunBD Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Looking good,I've got one of these trying to creap onto the work bench but I must finish the Hog first. What kind of base are you thinking of mounting the model on? Shaun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 (edited) Great job on the JFS. I just finished doing that on one of mine. All of the Strikes getting built around here got me into the mood to try again. I'm not sure if I'm going to do the intakes or not, but I'm leaning towards giving it a try. Aaron Edited April 19, 2009 by strikeeagle801 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Mark, you are doing a great job - love the painting on your little dudes Had I known, and not sure it would have helped, but I could have donated some lowered intakes from the Academy kit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Thanks all. I really lucked out on getting the crew dogs in the first place! Looking good,I've got one of these trying to creap onto the work bench but I must finish the Hog first.What kind of base are you thinking of mounting the model on? I'm leaning towards an acrylic base, assuming I can make one that doesn't look crappy. The only part that needs to be metal really is the rod that goes into the JFS mount. I'll probably only mount it for showing anyways, since this guy is destined for hanging from the ceiling in my son's room. The rest could be anything. I'm open to suggestions... ;) Aaron: Do the intakes. It's trivial. Once you do, you'll be surprised at hoe easy it is--remember, long, dark places are your scale friend. Not sure that sounds right, though... :huh: Ken: If the offer still stands, shoot me a PM with details. I don't know the layout, but since I haven't gotten married to the Revell kit parts yet, I would be interested in at least seeing what Academy did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne S Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Primarily how to cut the plasticard to make the ramps go down. The top piece is easy, appears to have a couple ovals on it if extended enough. The side triangles are trickier, especially on the inside. As the ramp pivots forward, I assume it exposes metal on the airframe side that sldies into the front of the inlet.Anywho, good details of the inlet inside when pivoted down would be appreciated! You have a PM. Pretty much on a E model all you see is the top section from the out side and a cover for the vent that would be seen on A/B/C/Ds. What you would mostly see is a line where the intake is locked "crud" and where the intake is its self. Like your thoughts, the plating far as I know slides into the Intake. So only new line one would have is the section of the pie cut one made, inside and out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 ^_^ Thanks all. I really lucked out on getting the crew dogs in the first place!I'm leaning towards an acrylic base, assuming I can make one that doesn't look crappy. The only part that needs to be metal really is the rod that goes into the JFS mount. I'll probably only mount it for showing anyways, since this guy is destined for hanging from the ceiling in my son's room. The rest could be anything. I'm open to suggestions... Aaron: Do the intakes. It's trivial. Once you do, you'll be surprised at hoe easy it is--remember, long, dark places are your scale friend. Not sure that sounds right, though... ;) Ken: If the offer still stands, shoot me a PM with details. I don't know the layout, but since I haven't gotten married to the Revell kit parts yet, I would be interested in at least seeing what Academy did. Mark, not sure you have seen this - the F-15C with dropped ramps I did http://www.aero-cafe.com/scale_models/otis...15/f-15_fre.htm PM inbound as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack-Swiss Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 That's a great job! Lovely work on the pilots! Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jminer Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Awesome work so far, Mark! Keep it going, the JFS looks great, looking forward to seeing the completed dropped intakes, too. Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 OK, minor update. Spent most of the day painting AMRAAMS, and beginning work on AMRAAM decals. First, the exhaust nozzles. The picture is too bright, but there is a subtle striped weatherinbg effect along with the bluing. Haven't finished the insides yet. Next, test shot of the aircrews, with the heads tacked on. Yes, that is a glossy reflection on the underside of the pilot's vizor. Finally, a test of the clear irridescent film my wife picked up for me. This is intended for the HUD. Hard to tell, but the film actually is very clear--it justs looks bad tacked onto the side of a beat up canopy. Once I get some cut to shape properly (I used a punch to size it, edges are terrible), I'll Future it onto the HUD for real. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne S Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Nice work :D What did the pilots come from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Nice work What did the pilots come from? hasegawa 1/48 scale F-16's. since the base closures across the united states i have a few(hundred) wanting to fly whatever you have. i hate to see pilots in the unemployment line. Edited April 21, 2009 by adamitri Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 by the way.... what markings/base will this mudhen be stationed? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 still looking good Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jminer Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 hasegawa 1/48 scale F-16's. since the base closures across the united states i have a few(hundred) wanting to fly whatever you have. i hate to see pilots in the unemployment line. Adamitri, if you have that many unemployed pilots, as it turns out, I have a few openings on my staff. Let me know what the recruitment fee is and I'll be happy to put them to good work. Mark, The exhausts look great as do the pilots. How did you get the bluish tint to the exhaust area? Also, I know what you mean about the HUD film, mine's the same way. It'll look good in the end. Keep up the good work! Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 send me your address. i used to live in oshkosh but had to move due to eating too many beer bratwurts during packer games. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 I did the exhausts with MM Steel and aluminum as a base coat, then washed with thinned Tamiya clear blue with Pearl Ex irridescent powder mixed in. After that I washed around the ring section with a black oil paint wash, using short strokes to create axial direction lines on the ring like the ones seen on real jets. This is almost all lost in a bright photo... As for markings, I'm still debating a Mountain Home or LN jet--I have access to markings for both units, and can use my Alps to update any serial numbers I need. And again, many thanks to adamitri for not 2 but 5 crew guys to choose from. Having two ground attack helmets in the pile was truly cool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jminer Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 send me your address. i used to live in oshkosh but had to move due to eating too many beer bratwurts during packer games. PM Sent. Thanks! I did the exhausts with MM Steel and aluminum as a base coat, then washed with thinned Tamiya clear blue with Pearl Ex irridescent powder mixed in. After that I washed around the ring section with a black oil paint wash, using short strokes to create axial direction lines on the ring like the ones seen on real jets. This is almost all lost in a bright photo...As for markings, I'm still debating a Mountain Home or LN jet--I have access to markings for both units, and can use my Alps to update any serial numbers I need. And again, many thanks to adamitri for not 2 but 5 crew guys to choose from. Having two ground attack helmets in the pile was truly cool. I'll have to try that with my next Strike. I did learn quite a bit with this one. Personally, I'd go with a Lakenheath jet, but that's just me. Regardless, I'm sure it's going to be stunning when completed. Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) Mark I'll have the decals, glass and some other stuff out to you tomorrow. I'm getting them packed up and ready to go tonight. Aaron Edited April 22, 2009 by strikeeagle801 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) OK, update time. Thanks to some tremendous help from Ken & Aaron, I now have no excuses to not finish this thing. Ken sent me the down inlets from the Academy kit, which by themselves weren't useful as they would have taken too much surgery to fit. But, I was able to use some of the pie shaped pieces and the top curved part that is exposed as the ramp goes down. Since the fuselage and the CFTs block most of the exterior seam, I focused on a good fit inside the inlet. Keep in mind a gear up display has to (by law) be angled in a slightly nose up attitude, so the interioir of the inlets are a bit more of a worry spot for me than a ground display. First, fixing the fuselage side. The lighter gray filler is CA glue/talc (SGT). Next, the inlet side: And the loosely fitted outside view: If you look bewteen the tape stripes on the canopy, you can see the WSO has lost his mind and is trying to tackle the pilot through the ejection seat. Other work--nav lights. Cut out the old: And the new--filled with clear 5 minute epoxy, then shaped. Will be painted Tamiya red when done: Another test--this is already removed, because it came out rough at the top, but using clear irridescent film (great tip geedubelyer) for the HUD. Since I still have like 30 square yards left to try and get it right, I'll eventually get there. Hardly post worthy, but just a shot of the AIM-9Ms comparing the fins before and after thinning. Edited April 27, 2009 by MarkW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jminer Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 The intakes are really looking nice, Mark. Looking forward to seeing how they come out. Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 very nice work Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne S Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Looking good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 OK, after finally mounting the Frankeninlets, cleaning up the join and fixing the detail that shows on the outer sides, I was finally able to get the next to last major construction done--the CFTs. There's a little more cleanup to do after priming--and the upper edge seam is not as clean as it will be. You can also see the pods have been partially mounted--thef Sniper pod is still off. The Nav pod will get a cloudy window made out of Testor's window glue--clear resin in this case would be too clear, and all pics I've seen of these pods the sensor window is cloudy, with a golden orange tint. I have had a devil of a time getting Hull's pod together--far more than I expected. It took signficant shaving at the bottom to even get it in, and there has been inteference on the inside of the clear resin part. If I can't get it to work as advertised, I may have to cut out the clear resin windows and replace them with clear sheet. Not exactly what I was hoping for.... On to happier results, here's the HUD using the clear irrdescent film. This should be the keeper--this time I mounted the film on the inside of the HUD panel with Future, and the results are much cleaner. It took some fiddling with the lighting to get all the colors, but at the right angle it is clear: golden: or blue red: Perfect! Finally, the exhaust interiors. Not perfect, I know, but after stripping my first couple attempts, I'm willing to call this good enough. You could say I'm exhausted. I'll be here all week, please try the veal. All for now. Still working on weapons--converting a Hasegawa GBU-31 into a laser JDAM to go with all the GBU-38s LJDAMS (thanks again!), and getting another batch of AMRAAMS done. The first batch was made with old, bad resin that hasn't stopped weeping oil yet. The new ones were pressure cast with new resin, and so far are looking much better. I am also considering spending $33 for the Academy SLAM Eagle--which will have enough mud moving weapons to more than pay for itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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