jmel Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 The Nav pod will get a cloudy window made out of Testor's window glue--clear resin in this case would be too clear, and all pics I've seen of these pods the sensor window is cloudy, with a golden orange tint. All of the recent jets I've seen have a black window in the Nav pod. jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 Hmmm....I was going with this look or this. Every picture I can find on the net shows the orange window, with the circular sensor barely visible. Do you have any references showing the black window? And is it a ground only thing, or an in flight thing? I already have my Sniper pod pointing down! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Yes, those are fine, but look at the dates on the photos. As I said, all the recent jets I've shot have the black window. I do not know why the change. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 Minor update, not pic worthy: Working on cleaning up the CFT seams a bit--I know they aren't supposed to be perfect, but they shouldn't be GAPS either. Also working on eliminating/reducing the vertical lines on the CFTS, which yes, would have been eaiser before I put them on the jet, or before putting on the bomb racks... So far, using Squadron green on the easy to access ones, then using Mr. Surfacer 500/denatured alcohol & Q tips for the rest. Also planning a repaint of the exhaust exteriors--MM gunmetal non buffing metallizer is IMO too dark. Now looking at Alclad Magnesium to lighten things up. I anticpate this guy going to the primer barn in the next weekend or so. I'm pretty sure I'm leaving the vertical tails off, but haven't stumbled upon a clever way to mount them and be removable and stable at the same time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 OK, some progress. Completed repaint of exhaust nozzle exteriors--went with the Alclad magenesium, as it has a smoother finish (less metallic graininess), and fairly well emulates the dark to bright shiny look on the outside of the engine. Old and new compared (still needs a wash): Also completed my experiment filing the CFT vertical panel lines (at least the ones I'm going to bother with). Up front, Squadron green, in back, Mr. Surfacer 500 removed with a Q-tip and denatured alcohol. I expect they will still be there, but much fainter: Spent the rest of the morning priming bombs and the second batch of AIM-120Cs, mostly with Mr. Surfacer 1200--my first experiment with that, we'll see how it goes. I finished fixing up the Sniper pod seams, and have already fixed the bent rear tab on the hardback. Tomorrow will see the main body going to get washed prior to priming this weekend, and clean up of the vertical stabs (still looking for a clever way to make the stable but removable). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Doing some cleanup before priming. Replaced the metal spike things on the side of the nose with real metal spikes 'cuz 1) one was broken off, 2) Revell tried, but they weren't terribly spiky & 3) I'd probably break off plastic ones again. Nothing looks like real metal more than real metal--primed and painted, of course. Also glued down the canopy frame--this tends to gap on some kits I've seen. The big question was could I still fit the seats and the crew into the pit with the frame on, and I have convinced myself yes after several test runs. These two shots give a good idea of how much, or little, putty I used. Around the nose gear looks bad but isn't--it has a lot of putty there because the doors are too short! Also worked on adding an exhaust screen to the Sniper Pod. The exhaust tube isn't the right profile, but then it isn't worth fixing. I now have four really decent AMRAAM casts as well, so that front is moving along. Just got to work on getting the seeker assemblies for the LGBs fixed (the Hasegawa weapons set look terrible in 1/48, and the give you no decent options to fix) and cast, and I'm good to go there too. Also have to scracth build those tiny little air probe by the back of the front gear...tossed the originals by mistake. Oh well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne S Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Are the pylons and tanks just tacked in place? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 very nice work Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 (edited) Are the pylons and tanks just tacked in place? Nope. They is on for good, as we say in Virginny. I really struggled with the PITA factor of painting with them on, versus making sure I had a good bond and cleaned up seams before painting. Since this is a gearless kit, I opted for bulletproof tank attachement. I'm confident I can get both primer and color not only into the canyon, but along the rails as well--it will just take some effort. It's not obvious in the pics, but I gave up on being clever with the vertical tails as well--they are fused on too. Glad I did it--now it looks like an Eagle! The only parts left are the glass, the really breakable probes (RBP), and the weapons racks sway bars (they'll be painted off board). It's definitely off to the scrubber wash then hopefully primer this weekend. I'm still debating whether to make the RBPs aft of the nose gear out of copper wire or styrene. Might even play with casting them, though they are too tiny to cast by themselves. Edited May 14, 2009 by MarkW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jminer Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Looking good, Mark! Keep us posted. Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Posted you say? Say no more. So, I keep noticing the section between the end of the wing and the horizontal stabs is too blank. The funky Morse code slime light, for example, has a frame. Oh no I didn't... Oh yes I did! This was was easier than I thought it would be, and the technique I used for building thin styrene frame off board has paved the was for building the HUD for my F/A-18F. As most probably know, gluing thin strips of styrene edge-on with welder glue is messy, often resulting in dissolving the styrene. I used this: Which is made of that usually annoying plastic that is completely immune to solvent glues, lacquer thinner etc--if you have those plastic pipettes from Testors, same material. Laying the frame pieces, then slopping on solvent glue resulted in some melting, but once the solvent glue had evaporated, the frame pieces pulled off (including the melted stuff, which looked like flash), and I was able to sand them down and clean up. It took less than 15 minutes to whip the whole thing out. For my HUD project, I've always felt photoetch was too thin--this should allow me to get something the thinness I want. I overlayed it on the kit decal slime lights, perfect fit. I plan to use the recently demo'd slime lights with glow in the dark paint technique and see how that works. On to priming...turn your head and cough! I ended up hitting the worry spots the most with Mr. Surfacer 1000--didn't see the need to paint the whole thing. So far, it looks pretty decent. there will be some cleanup needed, but less than I thought. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Just my luck--not only did I lose the RBPs, but lost the dang arrestor hook as well. That's a simple fix with a metal rod and some sculpting, but still irritating. After priming, there is some inlet work to do, but not too bad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Nice work, Mark! I'm looking forward to seeing it come together, esp. since the gear is up, that shows off the lines the best. Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 nothing new to report? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I can send you another arresting hook if that will help. PM me if needed. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 OK, I'm back--minor update, but good things are hopefully on the way. The priming went well--confirmed the clear epoxy light lenses I put on the wings were excellent (if I do say so) fits, but that the rear slime light frames I scratchbuilt were too bold, so they got knocked down a bit to "wafer thin". Spent a LOT longer on fixing the inlets--there was a noticeable step on the inside edges, which was a real chore to get at. Had to use poly putty, a first on this bird. On to new work. First, a last tweak to the cockpit--the flat molded handles had to go (the real ones stick up and are visible from the side): Now with more 3-D wire handles: And painted... Also, my spare parts worries are over!! My 1/48th Academy SLAM Eagle Modern Aircraft Weapons Set arrived yesterday It has GBU-31s/38s, 4 AMRAAM Ds, AIM-9X, and a few other interesting parts like a tailhook, that grab bar on top of the back seater's dashboard, new under nose antennas. The old ones were a) straight blades and ;) broken off. I really need a safer work area, or to be less clumsy... I now have enough ammo to do up my Strike and finish my F/A-18F loadout. Comparing the Revell to Academy stores, neither is 100%, but the Academy AMRAAMS are closer to the real thing for sure, and their AIM-9Xs totally beat the Revell SuperHornet ones. Oddly enough, the Academy GBU-31s are messed up--while overall better than the Hasegawa Weapons Set D JDAM, there is one glaring ommission--the bombs only have 3 body strakes, not 4. I'm a bit confused by this--a quick scan of Google images shows plenty of GBU-31s with 4 strakes, none with 3...oh well, a simple fix with strip styrene. Finally, the seats are permanently in now, as is the HUD and the Sniper pod after finishing cleanup there--a surprisingly hard thing to assemble and clean up for something so small. I went through a few more cycles with the HUD before getting the irridescent film trick to work. Now, on to painting the HUD frame and the back seater grab bar. Below shows a spare canopy and windscreen in place to protect the seats and soon the pilots. One more wash to remove dust, then the base coats go on. I'm debating whether to do the exhaust area first, then mask and paint he body, or vice versa. Opinions on that gladly accepted. As a last thought, I have a 3 yr old who has VERY grabby hands. He understand the concept of "Daddy's airplane" ;) , but that doesn't stop him from wanting to touch/see/taste it. So, in addition to the wonderful SLAM Eagle Weapons Set I got from Academy, there is apparently some sort of bonus airplane that looks kind of like a Strike Eagle included. Not one to waste, I can slap that bad boy together, paint it Krylon primer gray (actually not a bad match for Gunship Gray), and voila--my boy will have "his" airplane too! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Strike Eagles rule! Nice work, it's all coming together. I like the fact that you thinned the Sidewinder fins, something of a necessity in my opinion. Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D_IcarUS_ Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Still watching your Eagle... and what a great EAGLE so far. Keep it up!!! Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) Thanks! Getting serious now--adding back on the EBAs (easily broken antenna) on the underside of the nose where the originals were, as the name suggests, easily broken off... The Revell blade antennae were straight, but I've seen a few more modern birds with swept antennae like this LN bird., Since the Academy Weapons set/Strike Eagle spares kit has 4 swept antenna, I grabbed a couple and modified one to be the shorter, shark fin style: I used SGT on the front edge so I could make it wide enough. After more shaping: And finally, glued in place: The kit has now had its final wash to remove dust, and is drying overnight so I can begin the base coat applications. Edited June 10, 2009 by MarkW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aggressor Supporter Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Like the details. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Base coat of Gunship is going on. First time I've ever had to REFILL the color cup on my AB to just get base coverage. It is amazing how the dark, flat paint totally changes the kit from a hunk of plastic into something that really looks like an Eagle... Dang thing is too big to fit safely in my spray booth! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
designfriemel Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Another test--this is already removed, because it came out rough at the top, but using clear irridescent film (great tip geedubelyer) for the HUD. Since I still have like 30 square yards left to try and get it right, I'll eventually get there. Funny thing: I had the very same idea some months ago. Looked for iridescent foil for ages. Finally I found some sequins but the surface is scratched and not as good as the film you found. Mind giving me a hint were to get that stuff? Oh and BTW, definitely keep posting stuff you think is hardly worth posting, Mark! rg Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkW Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 (edited) Base coats of Gunship Gray are on. I love this view--I used a spare canopy/windscreen set to cover the cockpit for painting (the real ones will go on later). The best part is from this angle, even through the overspray, you can see the irridescent red/green shift HUD film. Now comes the weathering... Funny thing: I had the very same idea some months ago. Looked for iridescent foil for ages. Finally I found some sequins but the surface is scratched and not as good as the film you found. Mind giving me a hint were to get that stuff? Oh and BTW, definitely keep posting stuff you think is hardly worth posting, Mark! My wife picked up a roll at Michaels (i just gave her a description and she found it easily), but you can to any place that sells wrapping paper, or even a party supply store, and find a lifetime supply roll. Many folks on ARC have stumbled across it in the card/gift sections of supermarkets or drug stores. It will look silver from a distance, so make sure to check the label. The film is not super flexible, but from certain angle is perfectly clear. Edited June 12, 2009 by MarkW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Nice, flat paint job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
designfriemel Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 My wife picked up a roll at Michaels (i just gave her a description and she found it easily), but you can to any place that sells wrapping paper, or even a party supply store, and find a lifetime supply roll. Many folks on ARC have stumbled across it in the card/gift sections of supermarkets or drug stores. It will look silver from a distance, so make sure to check the label. The film is not super flexible, but from certain angle is perfectly clear. I know it sounds strange, but I've checked several gift shops here in Berlin plus special shops that specify in foils - nothing. Online survey - nothing that... Even if I found something iridescent it was never transluscent. For some weird reason that stuff is not available here in Germany. This is beginning to bug me especially because you folks now tell me it is easy to get where you live. Michaels - ok is that a UK based gift-shop brand? I got some friends over there, maybe they can help me out... thx for that hint! rg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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