Youngtiger1 Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Nice, another cool, different looking build. I bet it will cool sitting next to your primer F-22 in 1/48 that you build while back ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Eric, Tiger, thanks for your input. I just found this walkaround, which looks very promising: http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/luc_colin/mig-29_huaf_walk1.htm The intakes have lots of dirt and color variation, which I will give a try. Tiger, you brought back memories! You remember correctly that I was intending a rollout scheme for the Raptor, but changed my mind in the middle of it: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=244021&st=0My link I love primer colored fighters, and had given F-15E a try as well: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=229983&st=0 But after endless masking, I turned that into a WIF. We'll see where this build goes! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ya-gabor Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 As promised here are few photos of the intake. Here is the intake of a MiG-29A Type 9-12. I have no idea about the colours of Polish overhauled 29’s! In the photos below are the colour of the intake the way it was delivered by the Russian manufacturer. It is a dull metallic aluminium with lots of dirt on its surface. In some place you will find slightly different shaded alu panels, some have a bit of drown in them, in a way a duraluminium colour but not so strong as the real duralu. See how the inside is by far not a smooth surface but has some strip cover panels over the meeting surface of the bigger intake panels. The photos are not only of Hungarian but also of a Slovak AF MiG-29. When you remove the engine cover panels and take out the engine this is what you see looking forward in the intake. Also make a note that the front lips and front edges of the intakes are the same chemically treated and "discoloured" metallic parts as those used on the intake lip of the MiG-21's as well as many other parts on the airframe, like the rails of the ejection seats. All other notes are there on the photos. Hope this is of some help. Best regards Gabor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Gabor, thank you very much for your images. The level of detail and your descriptions are super. I love the material/color variation all around the intakes. Sorry I have been traveling and just got back to my laptop today. I hope to be back with more updates sometime next week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 I added some more switches and recolored the circuit breakers: As I mentioned earlier, I decided to redo the intakes. More puttying and sanding: Flatting the intake plates, followed by bending on a soft block of packing material using a Tamiya bottle and a brush handle. I gave it a slight 'S' shape by bending on both sides even though I believe it does not have a double curvature contour: Using Gabor's pics as inspiration, I repainted the insides of the intakes. Various colors and panels added absolutely randomly! Unfortunately, my dry tests show that all the colors will be invisible once the intakes are mounted. I also did more surgery on the intakes to improve their fit, but there is still noticeable gaps that will need to be filled in: My next big step will be attaching the intakes to the lower fuselage. I'm dreading it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Feeling nervous for you Janissary! Hope they turn out good mate. Such good work so far! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Thank you Captain! A few progress pics. To get a level lap joint, I added a piece of wine bottle foil to increase thickness: With that, I glued the intake and engine covers together before mounting them onto the lower fuselage. This is to be able to control the joint more closely. No putty so far (but will need a small amount). I have seen builds where if the intakes are attached to the fuselage first, the engine cover does not align well with the intakes. Taped up the cans to hide the seams: As I mentioned earlier, the front top of the intakes produces a large gap against the lower fuselage. To remedy this, I added styrene sheet pieces to beef up the front and faired it towards the back. The fit is improved (no pics): Edited July 5, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Some fictitious detailing on the starboard side, where the engine will be exposed: Engines: I detailed the starboard side engine with the kit parts as well as some extra stuff from the spares box: Edited July 5, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsahling Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Thats some impressive detail work on those engines, can't wait to see this one with some paint on it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 (edited) Thats some impressive detail work on those engines, can't wait to see this one with some paint on it! Thank you very much sir! A small update. Based on this fantastic idea, I tried to spruce up the exhausts. Glued together three layers of aluminum foil to get a thick strip: The small petals are not the right shape and are somewhat thick, but I will let them be: Gas tank: I lost all the raised weld details during sanding. So I sanded everything clean and used stretched sprue and styrene strips to recreate them. Surfacer 1200, metallic paint, hair spray, mixes of primer yellow, gunship gray, green, chipping, spot painting in metallic. The next step will be future, hair spray, camo colors, and another round of chipping: Edited July 30, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Now I am in the process of improving the surface details. The kit is great, but I find the panel lines and rivets to be too shallow. So, I deepened all lines and rivets. It takes rounds and rounds of cutting, wet sanding, washing, inspection, fixing etc. The final treatment was wet sanding using steel wool. Also, I am almost finished with the intake-fuselage attachments. Dry fitting and the added sheet styrene certainly helped, but also used Apoxie epoxy to fill some of the larger gaps. I also used Vallejo plastic putty for smaller ones. Both are easily cleaned with water, so I really like them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Really nice job Jani! I'm having a good time watching your job!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thank you Kike! I can't wait to get it all primed and painted. But the surface prep is taking too much time. Also, I am boiling with questions about the Mig-29 but I will be patient and save them until I get to the painting stages. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 All the hard work will pay off as It always has with your models!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foxmulder_ms Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Great build so far. I wish I had the talent and patience you have. I have to say it here too though, about the seat. That headrest seems too large in this model (my only complain about this otherwise amazing model). I am using an aftermaket for mine... Edited August 1, 2016 by foxmulder_ms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ya-gabor Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) A bit of help to anyone wanting to do a natural metal MiG-29 would be to look at the aircraft in an overhaul facility. Some lucky ones have visited the Baranovichi 558 ARZ in Belorus. Note that most aircraft on the assembly line are 9-13’s but there is an occasional 9-12 too. It is here: http://kak-eto-sdelano.livejournal.com/432891.html Best regards Gabor Edited August 1, 2016 by ya-gabor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Great build so far. I wish I had the talent and patience you have. I have to say it here too though, about the seat. That headrest seems too large in this model (my only complain about this otherwise amazing model). I am using an aftermaket for mine... I never noticed the out of proportion headrest, but you might be right! And thanks for the compliment. Maybe patient, but I don't consider myself talented at all. I just like learning from everybody else's builds. A bit of help to anyone wanting to do a natural metal MiG-29 would be to look at the aircraft in an overhaul facility. Some lucky ones have visited the Baranovichi 558 ARZ in Belorus. Note that most aircraft on the assembly line are 9-13’s but there is an occasional 9-12 too. It is here: http://kak-eto-sdelano.livejournal.com/432891.html Best regards Gabor Fantastic pictures! Thank you for the link. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) Working on the surface details. The lines and rivets are deepened with these tools. I mark the lines to remember which ones are done: The UMM scriber creates clean lines, the sewing pin pretty rough lines. Clean up will be necessary regardless: Once the lines are done, I wet sand the model using Micromesh 1500, followed by a toothbrush scrubbing. Next, I started working on the rivets: Edited August 8, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) Next, another round of Micromesh 1500 wet sanding and toothbrush scrubbing. Once dry, I go over all the lines and rivets with hardware store lacquer thinner and a thin brush to iron out any rough edges. The discoloration along the edges is due to that lacquer thinner. Obviously, the lines and rivets are unrealistically over-emphasized this way. But with coats of primers, paints, and clear coats, I'm hoping the effect will get more subtle, while making sure the wash layers settle in the details without being lost: I'm about ready to join the fuselage halves. To my surprise, the two halves do not fit all that well. There is a major gap in the middle: It takes quite a bit of force to get the surfaces to meet. If you have built this kit, can you let me know if you ran into this problem and if so, how did you deal with it? It almost feels like something inside is pushing back on the halves. I checked carefully from various angles, nothing seems to be getting in the way. So, I figured it's the mere shapes of the halves that lead to this large gap. I can squeeze the halves to meet, but it feels like it will not be a strong bond (too much resistance / push-back). Anyway, if you have any ideas that would be great. Edited August 8, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 J, I had the same issue and for me it was the exhausts. I had to clamp the halves together, extra thin the cr@p out of it and I left the clamps on for a couple of days just to make sure that it was properly bonded. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) Thank you Captain! Btw, do you have a WIP that I could follow? I'm sure I'd learn so much from your experience. No worries if you didn't have one. I ended up using CA glue right where the max gap is in the pictures (pretty much pooled the area), and also affixed the front cockpit areas through the radome opening using Teenax, CA+baking powder, and epoxy putty. I haven't glued the wings and rear fuselage yet. I hope the sections I did will hold their bond. I will keep everybody posted on the next steps. Edited August 8, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Unfortunately not mate. But feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll gladly respond Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) I am about to install the control surfaces, and had a question about them. Please refer to this image for the part numbers: Diagram I would like all control surfaces to be dropped as follows: - Rudders (D6): Slightly turned inwards - Outboard flaps (D11): Dropped slightly - Inboard flaps (D12): Dropped more than the outboard ones - Leading edge flaps (B16): Dropped slightly - Horizontal stabs (D16): Dropped backwards Would this be a realistic stance when parked, engines off? I don't know if any of these surfaces are spring loaded, hydraulic, or something else that positions these differently than what I am thinking. I've looked at several parked pictures, but I could not find a consistent configuration. There seems to be quite a variation. I just could not find any that matches my plans though. TIA Edited August 11, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) One question about a part that I am not sure if it should be there. Please see parts H4 and H9 in the following image: (1) Are these static wicks? (2) Are the instructions correct? It seems some of the 9.13s I have seen online are missing these. For the MiG-29s that I saw having them, I can't tell if those are 9.13s. To reinforce my suspicion, in the markings diagram, these are not included: Note that I am talking about the second pair of wicks. The outer ones are already molded in to the wings. (3) Just to confirm, the horizontal stabs of 9.13s do have this second pair (G9 + G10), and the instructions are accurate here, correct? Edited August 26, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 TTT for help :) I am about to attach the second pair of wicks to the wings so if this wrong please let me know. My uneducated guess is that 9.13s could have them if need be (i.e. there are mounting points on the wings), but it may not be a common occurrence. Is that so? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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