Choosing an airbrush

[iranair777]

I'm looking to buy a airbrush, or should I say I have brought this one but it looks to be a little too bad for painting 1:144 models. I have seen this one on ebay and looks much better, but for the same price range upto £20, can I get a better one? need some help here. never used a airbrush before and just a beginner but can learn quite quickly

Thanks!

[iranair777]

sorry about the double post, can anyone delete one please?

[thegoodsgt]

There are always "better" airbrushes, so since you have the one you have now, I would suggest spending a few weeks experimenting with it to learn how to achieve the best results. I'm always impressed at how some guys are able to achieve stellar results with products that most people would laugh at. At the end of the day, it's all about what YOU can do with the tools you have.

[iranair777]

There are always "better" airbrushes, so since you have the one you have now, I would suggest spending a few weeks experimenting with it to learn how to achieve the best results. I'm always impressed at how some guys are able to achieve stellar results with products that most people would laugh at. At the end of the day, it's all about what YOU can do with the tools you have.

To be honest I want something that will last for quite a while into the future and can be reliable. This one that I have brought seems a little too simple and will not allow me to paint as evenly and properly as the other one

[Paul T]

You know ,everybody has his/her own opinions when it come to airbrushes (you know...Ford ,GM ,Dodge..........MOPAR rule BTW)but myself,I first bought a badger 150 and loved it from the start.It did everything I needed it t to, price was good and parts easily available.i also bought a Badger 155 Anthem ,again great brush and does everything you will need to do,from 144 to 1:1 scale .These buggers are built to last(all metal) and very user freindly.The 150 comes with different needles and tips for fine line to broad spraying patterns.Again, parts are easy to obtain (not that I have ever needed to buy spares, as I use mine almost everyday and use lacquer based/thinned enamel paints and clean with lacquer thinner)...I mean, if a brush handles that ,what more can you ask for.Cleaning after a use is most important and I will do a complete breakdown of the brush after every other month.Also a good moisture trap is a wise investment as is a secondary airflow regulator (don`t trust the ones on a bigger compresser.....which is what I us,.an 11 gallon type you would use for air nailers and the like.)

But compressers and the type of air delivery system you will need or want is a whole new topic.In which case ,post a new heading if you need advise ,and me and the gang at ARC will look after you.

Again ,there are many fine airbrushes out there,so look and see what keeps comming up as good recommendations.The good ones always keep popping up.

Happy modelling

Paul T

Edited January 25, 2009 by Paul T

[iranair777]

You know ,everybody has his/her own opinions when it come to airbrushes (you know...Ford ,GM ,Dodge..........MOPAR rule BTW)but myself,I first bought a badger 150 and loved it from the start.It did everything I needed it t to, price was good and parts easily available.i also bought a Badger 155 Anthem ,again great brush and does everything you will need to do,from 144 to 1:1 scale .These buggers are built to last(all metal) and very user freindly.The 150 comes with different needles and tips for fine line to broad spraying patterns.Again, parts are easy to obtain (not that I have ever needed to buy spares, as I use mine almost everyday and use lacquer based/thinned enamel paints and clean with lacquer thinner)...I mean, if a brush handles that ,what more can you ask for.Cleaning after a use is most important and I will do a complete breakdown of the brush after every other month.Also a good moisture trap is a wise investment as is a secondary airflow regulator (don`t trust the ones on a bigger compresser.....which is what I us,.an 11 gallon type you would use for air nailers and the like.)

But compressers and the type of air delivery system you will need or want is a whole new topic.In which case ,post a new heading if you need advise ,and me and the gang at ARC will look after you.

Again ,there are many fine airbrushes out there,so look and see what keeps comming up as good recommendations.The good ones always keep popping up.

Happy modelling

Paul T

Thanks for the help

currently am looking to buy this airbrush. I am only looking to airbrush commerical aircraft as im not interested too heavily on military.

Another question I have is how long do canisters of pressurised air usually last? I have a 750ml bottle I brought yesterday and just curious as to how long it lasts with normal use.

can I use water to thin the enamel paint when I put it into the airbrush and use white spirit to clean?

Edited January 25, 2009 by iranair777

[AJK]

Thanks for the help

currently am looking to buy this airbrush. I am only looking to airbrush commerical aircraft as im not interested too heavily on military.

Another question I have is how long do canisters of pressurised air usually last? I have a 750ml bottle I brought yesterday and just curious as to how long it lasts with normal use.

can I use water to thin the enamel paint when I put it into the airbrush and use white spirit to clean?

Not sure how long your 750ml bottle will last - most people switch to a compressor quite quickly.

You can't thin enamel paint with water - probably best to start off using the thinner for your brand of paint.

If you want to start off experimenting with the brush - water and food colouring is a nice way to start.

Good luck...

anthony

[I.Illes]

First of all: these little cans are VERY overpriced and last for approx. 1 1/48 kit if you are lucky. The other downside is: they tend to freeze and the pressure decreases. For good results, a good airsource with constant (and controlable) pressure is vital.

Second: I don't understand what difference the subject makes. Either buy a good airbrush or save money for a a good one, but don't make the mistake to think that average quality is ok for subject A and good quality is needed required for subject B. When you get the hang of it, you will regret to have chosen a cheap one and would have been better off haveing saved that money and added it to the rest to get a decent one. I don't say these Far-East brushes are not good, but there is that saying that has proven to be quite true: you get what you pay for.

If money is an issue, I'd go for used quality gear than cheap stuff that costs the same new.

Regarding the enamel question, you can easily answer that yourself: would you thin enamels with water when you brushpaint? No. You need Enamelthinner or similar for enamels.

Waterbased acrylics can be thinned with water, solventbased acrylics with solvent (every manufacturer has his own mixes, so make sure you get the right one as some are not interchangable).

Hope, this helps.

István

Edited January 25, 2009 by I.Illes

[iranair777]

First of all: these little cans are VERY overpriced and last for approx. 1 1/48 kit if you are lucky. The other downside is: they tend to freeze and the pressure decreases. For good results, a good airsource with constant (and controlable) pressure is vital.

Second: I don't understand what difference the subject makes. Either buy a good airbrush or save money for a a good one, but don't make the mistake to think that average quality is ok for subject A and good quality is needed required for subject B. When you get the hang of it, you will regret to have chosen a cheap one and would have been better off haveing saved that money and added it to the rest to get a decent one. I don't say these Far-East brushes are not good, but there is that saying that has proven to be quite true: you get what you pay for.

If money is an issue, I'd go for used quality gear than cheap stuff that costs the same new.

Regarding the enamel question, you can easily answer that yourself: would you thin enamels with water when you brushpaint? No. You need Enamelthinner or similar for enamels.

Waterbased acrylics can be thinned with water, solventbased acrylics with solvent (every manufacturer has his own mixes, so make sure you get the right one as some are not interchangable).

Hope, this helps.

István

So basically your advising me to stay clear of that ebay store and the products they have? if not then which product would you recommend within a buy it now price range of £30?

Thanks

[I.Illes]

IF I were you, I'd keep looking for used Iwatas or Harder & Steenbeck, which are 2nd hand then, but that doesn't necessarily mean you buy junk. Many people quit airbrushing or modelling and sell their gear and you would most likely get a better quality brush for the same price that a new cheap one would cost.

That's like buying a used Mercedes for the price of a new VW Polo The quality difference is huge! On the newer H&S brushes, the O-rings are even solventresistent, which means they don't become brittle. Whatever you decide, don't forget: it's the artist, not the tool, but better tools usually give more control and better results, just like cheap paintbrushes and expensive paintbrushes. I don't claim to be the holder of the ultimate truth, mind you, I only write what I've experienced and know having 7 different models at home and having started with cheap ones. (Today, I regard them as a lesson and the money I shelled out for 3 cheaper ones could have easily been spent on one good airbrush)

The better ones were my Iwata H-B and Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2in1, the latter is by far the best I ever had and also the easiest to maintain/clean.

István

Edited January 26, 2009 by I.Illes

[iranair777]

thanks. I just checked ebay and in the process of bidding for this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180322822543

just hoping to win it.

Edited January 27, 2009 by iranair777

[mightymax]

Wow! The brush you bought and the one your bidding on are like buying a Chevy Cavalier then turning around and buying a Benz.

The airbrush you bought is almost identical to the one my dad started me with 35 years ago! Only difference is they were molded in blue back then.

It is basically a good beginner tool but is more for one color broad coverage painting. So easy to clean and disassemble even I could do it! :huh: The second one you pictured is a cheap Chinese knockoff. I had bought one for my son and it was garbage, IMHO.

The one you are currently bidding on. Yowsa!!!!!!! That is a nice brush.

Max Bryant

[iranair777]

Wow! The brush you bought and the one your bidding on are like buying a Chevy Cavalier then turning around and buying a Benz.

The airbrush you bought is almost identical to the one my dad started me with 35 years ago! Only difference is they were molded in blue back then.

It is basically a good beginner tool but is more for one color broad coverage painting. So easy to clean and disassemble even I could do it! :D The second one you pictured is a cheap Chinese knockoff. I had bought one for my son and it was garbage, IMHO.

The one you are currently bidding on. Yowsa!!!!!!! That is a nice brush.

Max Bryant

lets just hope I can win it :)

Although I have auto bidded to go for £30 in the last 5 seconds

[I.Illes]

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you :D

István

[iranair777]

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you :)

István

thanks :)

although I might let everything airbrush down a little cause I just stupidly said I will buy in the next few days :D

[iranair777]

also I have brought Revell Aqua Colour paints and just realised that they can be thinned using water but can I use it in airbrushes and how many parts paint to water do I have to use to achieve a good consistency?

Does anyone also know where I can find information on hanging the flaps out on a revell lufthansa 747?

Edited January 27, 2009 by iranair777

[iranair777]

also Do I have to use a primer before airbrushing?

[I.Illes]

Ok, since noone else replied: priming can't hurt in general. It makes the paint adhere better. One of the advantages is: priming shows where you need to sand off putty or other flaws and helps to reduce scratches in the surface. So there are several reason for using it. Another one would be that Tamiya (F) primer is probably one of the best whites you can get. It doesn't yellow and stays white almost forever.

Hanging the flaps? No idea, but have you looked into the In Progress section? If you look at B-1 builds or basically anything Pierre (Scalephantomphixer) has built, you get an idea HOW to do it. It requires patience, good referencephotos, some plasticsheet (i.e. Evergreen plasticsheet) and last but not least some guts and experience.

István

Edit: No pun intended, but: the "Search"-Button is your best friend ;)

Edited January 29, 2009 by I.Illes

[iranair777]

Ok, since noone else replied: priming can't hurt in general. It makes the paint adhere better. One of the advantages is: priming shows where you need to sand off putty or other flaws and helps to reduce scratches in the surface. So there are several reason for using it. Another one would be that Tamiya (F) primer is probably one of the best whites you can get. It doesn't yellow and stays white almost forever.

Hanging the flaps? No idea, but have you looked into the In Progress section? If you look at B-1 builds or basically anything Pierre (Scalephantomphixer) has built, you get an idea HOW to do it. It requires patience, good referencephotos, some plasticsheet (i.e. Evergreen plasticsheet) and last but not least some guts and experience.

István

Edit: No pun intended, but: the "Search"-Button is your best friend ;)

thanks very much for replying, and yes I have tried searching

one more question still remains althouh I regarded it more important than the others:

I have brought Revell Aqua Colour paints and just realised that they can be thinned using water but can I use it in airbrushes and how many parts paint to water do I have to use to achieve a good consistency?

Edited January 29, 2009 by iranair777

[I.Illes]

Well, honestly, I don't know these paints, but as a general rule of thumb, you can say the consistence of milk should be ok as this rule doesn't have to do with enamels or acrylics, but the consistence that would come out of the airbrush without clogging it or producing spiderwebs (paint too thick, pressure too high). Spraying distance is also important: too far away from the kit and the dried paint hits the kit. No joke. Lower pressure and gently pull the trigger back so you get a feeling for the air/paint-mix.

István

[iranair777]

ok, I'll test it out when I get everything collected and get back to you; will need to pratice a bit before applying. does a airbrush spray outside of the spraying area or would I need to get a box and spray in a box?

[I.Illes]

ok, I'll test it out when I get everything collected and get back to you; will need to pratice a bit before applying. does a airbrush spray outside of the spraying area or would I need to get a box and spray in a box?

Box. Definitely a box. And while you're at it: get a proper respirator, not one of those cheap dustmasks. Nose- and Lungcancer are recognized occupational diseases among airbrushillustrators and I still see many people who don't spend the extra 30 Dollars. Get one with exchangeable Filters. You can tell when you have to replace them: if you smell the paint, change the filters immediately. No build can be so important that you risk your health (or life).

Happy and safe modelling,

István

[iranair777]

I'm not going to be a heavy user tbh. Only going to use it once in every 5 or so months so I'm not worried by that but wheather the spray will be outside the area you want to spray

forgot to add that I havn't found any specifics on creating flaps here

Edited January 29, 2009 by iranair777

[I.Illes]

Maybe start a new thread and ask exactly that flap question. Noone would expect this in an airbrush thread. We have many excellent scratchbuilders here who would help.

István

[iranair777]

Maybe start a new thread and ask exactly that flap question. Noone would expect this in an airbrush thread. We have many excellent scratchbuilders here who would help.

István

ok, thanks very much for your help so far ;)