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F-14A, VF-84 Jolly Rogers 1/48


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Hello gentlemans....

kit: hasegawa 1/48

aires: wheel bay set, jet exhaust, cockpit

Eduard: PE parts 49 229

decals: Qeen of spades, Fightertow FTD48013

soory for photos on "nightvision mode" :)

A-16.jpg

Edited by Honza K.
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Off to a nice start. Should be a beautiful bird when finished. Those wheel wells are awesome. Did you deepen the panel lines or actually totally rescribe stuff? I can't see any spot where you closed up lines if you did.

Cheers,

Dave

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Instal wheel bays is not easy, but not so hard... :jaw-dropping:

Parche: I rescribe all plastic peaces and make a new rivets...

some progress from this HC build.

Difference of diameters of Aires exhaust and plastic peace was about 1mm. I must use 400 sendpaper.

missing lines on these parts was granted.

uff... but end of war with exhaust is near....

P4120018_resize.jpg

P4120011_resize.jpg

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Man that's a outstanding work...very neat indeed!!!

What surfacer did you use? 1200?...I got a question dude...when you touch the surface of the plane after you primed is it smooth or a bit rough???

Cause when I use the 1000 and 1200 sometimes the surface becomes a bit rough and not that smooth...I have to polish to have it smooth...

Cheers dude

:(

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Man that's a outstanding work...very neat indeed!!!

What surfacer did you use? 1200?...I got a question dude...when you touch the surface of the plane after you primed is it smooth or a bit rough???

Cause when I use the 1000 and 1200 sometimes the surface becomes a bit rough and not that smooth...I have to polish to have it smooth...

Cheers dude

:worship:

Hi Ninja turtle Jack!

I using surfacer 1200 and after aplying it polish surface with dry cloth. And after that is surface perfect smooth.

surfacer 1000 is rougher that 1200.... and 500 is most gross....

And thaks, I am happy that you like it.

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Hi Ninja turtle Jack!

I using surfacer 1200 and after aplying it polish surface with dry cloth. And after that is surface perfect smooth.

surfacer 1000 is rougher that 1200.... and 500 is most gross....

And thaks, I am happy that you like it.

But with dry cloth what you mean?like a t-shirt or what?

Cause I usually smooth it down with micromesh or something like from 3000 to 6000 grit sandpaper...

Do you do the same with paints?

Cause if you read my progress I just recently changed to Mr. Color paints and I find that they dry a bit more rough on the surface...is it right?

And again, are you thinning them with Mr. color thinner?what's the best way to thin them?

Cheers and thanks alot for the answer dude

:worship:

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But with dry cloth what you mean?like a t-shirt or what?

Cause I usually smooth it down with micromesh or something like from 3000 to 6000 grit sandpaper...

Do you do the same with paints?

Cause if you read my progress I just recently changed to Mr. Color paints and I find that they dry a bit more rough on the surface...is it right?

And again, are you thinning them with Mr. color thinner?what's the best way to thin them?

Cheers and thanks alot for the answer dude

:worship:

Best way to thin GSI-C is levelling thinner. Specially for surfacer...

Becouse if you have presure about 0,7ATM and you thinning by color thinner, surfacer (or color) is sometines

dry in air and when falls to kit, make a rought surface.

I use only levelling thinner. Paint dry later. And you don´t have any problem with rougtht surface.

And dry cloth was mean as a old T-shirt.

Now you can use Mr.Retarder mild (add to Mr.color thinner), or buy a Levelling thinner.

For airbrushing: I have Iwata HP-BH, using pressure 0,7-1ATM (BAR) and airbrushing from 2-4 cm from surface. 1/2-3 surfacer/thinner.

I hope then this will help you.

If you have any question, write it.. If I will know, try to answer you.

Good luck Jack.

Edited by Honza K.
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