Having trouble spraying fine lines with IWATA HP-C

[chuck540z3]

I'm trying to spray some fine lines with the captioned airbrush, but I'm not having much luck. The airbrush sometimes starts out OK, but soon enough I need to blast a large amount of paint to clear the nozzle for it to work at all. I am using MM gray enamels, the paint is new and it is thinned a LOT because I want a subtle thin shade to come out when I spray. I cleaned the airbrush thoroughly, including the tiny tip of the nozzle, but the result is the same.

I've played with all sorts of spraying air pressures, from 8 psi to 25 psi. The higher pressures are more reliable, but then I lose some control over the small amount of paint I want to come out. I could live with this, but sooner or later the paint tends to clog again and I have to shoot another blast to clear things up.

I'm using Testors thinner and my air supply is dry.

Any ideas? This air brush shouldn't be having these problems.

Edited September 8, 2009 by chuck540z3

[cheese]

Hey Chuck,

Im loving your build by the way. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning the needle with some lacquer thinner? I was having the same problem with my Iwata HP and found that cleaning the needle and tip with lacquer thinner (using a stiff brush) resolved my issues. Oh, I also thoroughly cleaned the very bottom of the cup and the area where the needle is exposed to the paint.

Since then, I have periodically flushed out the airbrush with the lacquer thinner.

The MM should flow smooth enough unless its bad. Cant say anything about the thinner, I use the home depot enamel thinner without any problems.

Cheers and good luck,

Mike

Edited August 21, 2009 by cheese

[chuck540z3]

Hey Chuck,

Im loving your build by the way. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning the needle with some lacquer thinner? I was having the same problem with my Iwata HP and found that cleaning the needle and tip with lacquer thinner (using a stiff brush) resolved my issues. Oh, I also thoroughly cleaned the very bottom of the cup and the area where the needle is exposed to the paint.

Since then, I have periodically flushed out the airbrush with the lacquer thinner.

The MM should flow smooth enough unless its bad. Cant say anything about the thinner, I use the home depot enamel thinner without any problems.

Cheers and good luck,

Mike

Thanks Mike,

In my experience this type of problem is always related to a dirty air brush, thick paint or not enough air pressure. I think I'll re-clean it one more time, just to make sure.

[GGoheen]

It truly helps to do a complete disassemble and thorough cleaning at least once a month with your Iwata. I have a HP-CS as my primary and while I always clean between colors by blowing lacquer thinner through the airbrush this doesn't always take care of residue that builds up around the needle and tip. My suggestion is to take your airbrush apart and thoroughly clean with lacquer thinner, running a pipe cleaner (favorite cleaning too of mine) through the body and you will probably be surprised by how much residue is on the tip of this even if you're diligent about cleaning after each use. Another suggestion would be to remove the needle cap and replace it with a crown cap. By doing so this helps alleviate some of the build up you might be experiencing at the tip of the airbrush. Iwata Crown Cap

Greg

[chuck540z3]

Another suggestion would be to remove the needle cap and replace it with a crown cap. By doing so this helps alleviate some of the build up you might be experiencing at the tip of the airbrush. Iwata Crown Cap

Greg

Thanks! I didn't know that such a beast existed- and it sounds like it could be the cure. I'll try one.

[TXCajun]

I've got the HP-CS and I have the exact same problem when I don't clean it thoroughly. The tolerances seem so tight with that airbrush that I have. Even after I finish a session and blow lacquer thinner through it, I still can pull the needle and there will be this milky residue on it. That builds up over time and the result will be exactly what you are deescribing.

As has been recommended, do a total tear-down. Use Q-tips, pipe cleaners, or whatever you need to use (I also use the pointed tipped Gunze Mr. Cotton swabs) and clean it throughout with lacquer thinner, including wiping down the needle.

I also use a Haier (brand) sonic jewelry cleaner with lacquer thinner or Krud-Kutter in it. That seems to help quite a bit if I have let it go for a while.

When I re-assemble and go to spray, I use my paint thinned to the consistency of skim milk with about 10psi. It works great for me in the HP-CS.

Stew

[cheese]

replace it with a crown cap. By doing so this helps alleviate some of the build up you might be experiencing at the tip of the airbrush. Iwata Crown Cap

Greg

Can you tell me how this thing works? Does is give the blow back a way to disperse (im guessing here)?

Sounds pretty interesting. I have heard from some car show on tv once, where a professional artist was airbrushing something, that if you would remove the protective cap (the very last piece protecting the needle) it helps get extremely fine lines and gives complete control of the paint. HE mentioned, nevertheless, that he keeps a stash of needles nearby for when he accidently smashes the tip on something.

Mike

[Satelliteman]

Thanks! I didn't know that such a beast existed- and it sounds like it could be the cure. I'll try one.

Don't spend $20.00 on a crown cap. I used a 3 sided file on my cap: Just file two notches at 90 degree angles on your cap & make your own.

[terryt]

Can you tell me how this thing works? Does is give the blow back a way to disperse (im guessing here)?

Sounds pretty interesting. I have heard from some car show on tv once, where a professional artist was airbrushing something, that if you would remove the protective cap (the very last piece protecting the needle) it helps get extremely fine lines and gives complete control of the paint. HE mentioned, nevertheless, that he keeps a stash of needles nearby for when he accidently smashes the tip on something.

Mike

I read an article about removing the aircap to do fine lines. I removed mine and experimented, it works, however, doing as suggested exposes the needle to harm if you bump it on something.

The Crown Cap allows air to escape from the side of the cap and allows you to get closer to paint fine lines.

Here is a link to a site that has lessons and tips on airbrushing.

http://www.howtoairbrush.com/index.php/site/lessons/C5/

I also picked up some brushes to clean my airbrush at Harbor Freight, Link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=97591

Edited August 22, 2009 by terryt

[chuck540z3]

Thanks again guys.

As a follow up, last night I tore down my airbrush and cleaned everything again. The tiny nozzle tip was clear and there was no paint residue left on anything. I then mixed up some more paint with a new bottle, just to make sure the paint isn't the problem.

Right away things were going great. I had fine lines and total control, but, soon enough the paint wouldn't flow without increasing the pressure or letting a blast of paint out to clear the nozzle. By moving the needle in and out, I was able to clear the "clog", so it's clearly clogging at the tip.

I don't have this problem when I paint normally because I usually have a steady flow of paint and I always shoot a short blast on a piece of water if I haven't been painting for several seconds. With fine lines, however, you need low air pressure and there are often time delays between strokes, which also means clogging at the tip. One thing I didn't try was to add some lacquer thinner to the paint which may reduce the clogging problem (or make it worse).

I'm certain now that removing the needle cap is the way to go, so I've ordered a new crown cap. I'll keep you posted when I give it another try when it arrives.

[cheese]

oh, i almost forgot one thing...sometimes the paint bottle collects paint at the tip and dries up (which causes the cap to become "cemented")....when unscrewing, we release those pieces that sometimes fall into the jar....its a good idea to watch the paint flow to see if any visible chips have fallen into your cup.....its happened to me on more then 1 occassion and just found it good practice to clean the jar rim before and after pouring the paint.....

that way, you can catch the big chips that can clog up the brush.....HTH....mike

Edited August 24, 2009 by cheese

[terryt]

Thanks again guys.

As a follow up, last night I tore down my airbrush and cleaned everything again. The tiny nozzle tip was clear and there was no paint residue left on anything. I then mixed up some more paint with a new bottle, just to make sure the paint isn't the problem.

Right away things were going great. I had fine lines and total control, but, soon enough the paint wouldn't flow without increasing the pressure or letting a blast of paint out to clear the nozzle. By moving the needle in and out, I was able to clear the "clog", so it's clearly clogging at the tip.

I don't have this problem when I paint normally because I usually have a steady flow of paint and I always shoot a short blast on a piece of water if I haven't been painting for several seconds. With fine lines, however, you need low air pressure and there are often time delays between strokes, which also means clogging at the tip. One thing I didn't try was to add some lacquer thinner to the paint which may reduce the clogging problem (or make it worse).

I'm certain now that removing the needle cap is the way to go, so I've ordered a new crown cap. I'll keep you posted when I give it another try when it arrives.

What type of paint are you using?

If its water based acrylic paint you should be using acrylic retarder to keep paint from drying on the tip

If you are using lacquer you should be using lacquer retarder for the same reason.

Link to retarders:

Acrylic: http://www.dickblick.com/products/createx-...es-and-mediums/

Lacquer: http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?...amp;submit.y=12

[chuck540z3]

MM flat grey enamels. This should be spraying Nirvana.

[terryt]

If you use lacquer thinner it causes the paint to dry faster. Try using just plain paint thinner that you can buy at any home improvement store. You might have to thin the paint a little more. I found I had to thin my paints between 80 and 90% to get a real fine line.

Be aware that flat paints are harder to spray than gloss, due to the flattening agent and larger pigment in the paint.

Sorry I forgot what you said in your original post, you are using MM enamel thinner, which shoud be fine. I usually use air pressure around 10-12 PSI.

You might also consider getting some strainer funnels like in this link. http://www.micromark.com/STRAINER-FUNNELS-SET-OF-3,8343.html

I have that set and use it frequently to get the big junk out of my paint.

Edited August 24, 2009 by terryt

[chuck540z3]

If you use lacquer thinner it causes the paint to dry faster. Try using just plain paint thinner that you can buy at any home improvement store. You might have to thin the paint a little more. I found I had to thin my paints between 80 and 90% to get a real fine line.

Be aware that flat paints are harder to spray than gloss, due to the flattening agent and larger pigment in the paint.

Thanks. I'm using Testors thinner only, since it's made for their paint, but maybe it has some drying agents in it. I've used Varsol/paint thinner before, but it took forever to dry. Maybe that's the small price to pay for fine lines with this paint selection?

Edited August 24, 2009 by chuck540z3

[terryt]

Another thing you could use to strain the paint to ensure there are no large particles in the paint is to us panty hose. If you have a wife or girlfriend you can us the ones the have runs in them.

Edited August 26, 2009 by terryt

[Pete "Pig" Fleischmann]

I actually take the crown cap off and use no tip for fine lines.

Thin, thin, thin the paint-

Also, when you take the needle out, I recommend pulling it out the front of the airbrush. When you install it, put it in from the back..this way all the crud moves in the same direction towards the front of the brush..just FYI

HTH

Pig

[chuck540z3]

I actually take the crown cap off and use no tip for fine lines.

Thin, thin, thin the paint-

Also, when you take the needle out, I recommend pulling it out the front of the airbrush. When you install it, put it in from the back..this way all the crud moves in the same direction towards the front of the brush..just FYI

HTH

Pig

Thanks Pig,

Is this for the airbrush I'm using (IWATA HP-C Plus)? It seems to me that there's an air hole right underneath the needle, so without the cap on, it blows air all over what I'm trying to paint.

I really don't know how this sucker works, so bear with me.

[Pete "Pig" Fleischmann]

Thanks Pig,

Is this for the airbrush I'm using (IWATA HP-C Plus)? It seems to me that there's an air hole right underneath the needle, so without the cap on, it blows air all over what I'm trying to paint.

I really don't know how this sucker works, so bear with me.

Oooh, my bad-I've got The CS..but try the needle trick when you clean it. My bud Bob Beary showed me that-

HTH

Pig

[Bob Beary]

.but try the needle trick when you clean it. My bud Bob Beary showed me that-

HTH

Pig

Pete, Thanks for the mention. And to add a brief comment, if you have an airbrush with a ball or the like at the end of the needle that prevents it from being removed from the front you can usually push it far enough to the front that you can clean all the gunk off it before removing it from the rear.

Bob

[theseeker]

I'm trying to spray some fine lines with the captioned airbrush, but I'm not having much luck. The airbrush sometimes starts out OK, but soon enough I need to blast a large amount of paint to clear the nozzle for it to work at all. I am using MM gray enamels, the paint is new and it is thinned a LOT because I want a subtle thin shade to come out when I spray. I cleaned the airbrush thoroughly, including the tiny tip of the nozzle, but the result is the same.

I've played with all sorts of spraying air pressures, from 8 psi to 25 psi. The higher pressures are more reliable, but then I lose some control over the small amount of paint I want to come out. I could live with this, but sooner or later the paint tends to clog again and I have to shoot another blast to clear things up.

I'm using Testors thinner and my air supply is dry.

Any ideas? This air brush shouldn't be having these problems.

Chuck,

I have four Iwata's and I swear by them, however they are finicky little devils. Questions for you;

1. Do you only use this AB with enamels?

2. What is your ratio of thinner to paint?

3. Which compressor do you use?

4. Do you ever see bubbles in your cup?

The lower the pressure the better, especially with thin paint. If your paint is clogging, it may mean that your paint is drying. This happens a lot with acrylic paints.

In the case of enamels, it is not the norm. There is also gloss vs. flat and that is a horse of a different color. I could go on, but I won't!

Rocky

[chuck540z3]

Chuck,

I have four Iwata's and I swear by them, however they are finicky little devils. Questions for you;

1. Do you only use this AB with enamels?

2. What is your ratio of thinner to paint?

3. Which compressor do you use?

4. Do you ever see bubbles in your cup?

The lower the pressure the better, especially with thin paint. If your paint is clogging, it may mean that your paint is drying. This happens a lot with acrylic paints.

In the case of enamels, it is not the norm. There is also gloss vs. flat and that is a horse of a different color. I could go on, but I won't!

Rocky

Hi Rocky

• I use enamels and Future only.
  
• Thinner to paint is about 4 to 1 (looks like 10 to 1 when it settles in the bottom)
  
• I use an ordinary small compressor used for other applications like filling tires. The air up here is dry and I make sure the tank gets emptied occasionally.
  
• No bubbles.
  
• My enamel paint is flat- which tends to dry very quickly, but nothing like acrylics (I hate them)
  

[theseeker]

Hi Rocky

• I use enamels and Future only.
  
• Thinner to paint is about 4 to 1 (looks like 10 to 1 when it settles in the bottom)
  
• I use an ordinary small compressor used for other applications like filling tires. The air up here is dry and I make sure the tank gets emptied occasionally.
  
• No bubbles.
  
• My enamel paint is flat- which tends to dry very quickly, but nothing like acrylics (I hate them)
  

Chuck,

The explanation I can come with is clogging. The best cleaner I have found is Alclad airbrush cleaner and I use it every time I finish spraying. I am also anal about cleaning mine weekly. I take the tips off and place them in a jar with laquer thinner and let them soak overnight. I am probably too anal!

Rocky

[chuck540z3]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, which has led to the solution. It's the Testor's thinner,which must have some sort of drying "heat" in the mix, which clogs at very low air pressures. I tried some ordinary paint thinner and voila, no clogs!

[theseeker]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, which has led to the solution. It's the Testor's thinner,which must have some sort of drying "heat" in the mix, which clogs at very low air pressures. I tried some ordinary paint thinner and voila, no clogs!

Chuck,

Well at least I was on track! I never thought about Testor's thinner I am glad you figured it out.

Rocky