Blain Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 I have been using future to secure decals, but I noticed that there instances when it doesn't fully conform to the surface. I don't want to wait for an order of micro sol so does anyone have any home brew alternatives for decal softening? I use acrylic paints so I was thinking of alcohol mixed with a little water??? Or is there something else that I can use. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Diluted white vinegar should work but try on a spare decal first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lock n' Load Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 White vinegar works as setting solution. As solvent solution and only of you are brave enough, use nail polish remover, DO NOT BRUSH, just wet the decal little by little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeV Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 White vinegar works as setting solution.As solvent solution and only of you are brave enough, use nail polish remover, DO NOT BRUSH, just wet the decal little by little. Nail polish remover is acetone. Do not use that on decals. The vinegar is all he needs for making the decal snuggle into crevices, etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fischer Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I use isopropilic alcohol for decals. I paint with enamels but sometimes I use acrylics and no problem, but I would try in a spare decal first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lock n' Load Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Nail polish remover is acetone. Do not use that on decals. The vinegar is all he needs for making the decal snuggle into crevices, etc. Nail polish remover is dilluted acetone, not pure acetone, which can actually burn your skin. I use Nail Polish Remover as a solvent and it works great when you know how to use it. Edited February 17, 2010 by Lock n' Load Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeV Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Nail polish remover is dilluted acetone, not pure acetone, which can actually burn your skin.I use Nail Polish Remover as a solvent and it works great when you know how to use it. That's fine if you like using that stuff. I will stick to Micro Set, Micro Sol and Solvaset. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gotarheelz14 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Do you guys feel like there are some decals that will simply not snuggle down? Some Hase and Tamiya decals have given me such problems! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Do you guys feel like there are some decals that will simply not snuggle down? Some Hase and Tamiya decals have given me such problems! For those decals there are two miracles called Mr. Mark Softer (green cap) and Mr. Mark Setter (blue cap). And you can use them safely with Microscale and Cartograph decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G_Marcat_Italy Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Tested yesterday the TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT as decal softener: fantastic! The only advice is of to use very little amount of glue dropped exactly in the decal. Note that the very little brush located in the cap of the glue's bottle help a lot to dose exactly the glue placement. I have tested the Extra thin cement on a mix of decals from ESCI, Monogram Tauro and unknown brand and the Extra Thin has worked with all them. After the use the action is immediate. It's important do not brush insistently the glue over the decal because the glue is very aggressive if brushed on the decal's paint. Deposit only very few drops on the decal and let the drops to works. Others actions are NOT required. Here are images of the work done with the Extra Thin. The procedure I used is so: The painted surface was covered with FUTURE as usual . Before to apply the decal I washed the surface with Future diluted in water. After the decal application, as she is glued on the surface is the moment for the drops of EXTRA THIN CEMENT. The Extra Thin evaporate in few minutes and after this time I have immediately applied a layer of pure FUTURE with a brush on the decal. Believe me: the first test is gone a lot well better of what I hoped!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 That's fine if you like using that stuff. I will stick to Micro Set, Micro Sol and Solvaset.Makes 2 of us. Right tools for the right job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 For those decals there are two miracles called Mr. Mark Softer (green cap) and Mr. Mark Setter (blue cap). And you can use them safely with Microscale and Cartograph decals. +1. They are both much stronger than micro set and sol and seem to work better on Hasegawa and Tamiya decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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