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1/48 Hasegawa F/A-18F Super Hornet

Rampage55

By Rampage55,
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Rampage55

Rampage55

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I built this model for the Enterprise GB here on ARC and really had a lot of fun with it. Here is a link to the build thread if you're interested. I must confess that I wasn't much of a Super Bug fan, but I have always had an affinity for VF-211. After seeing a beautiful build by Geoff of 'Afterburner Decals' of this particular jet on another modeling forum I was sold. Then when the 'Two Mikes Seamless Intakes' were released the temptation became too much to resist... :cheers:

A few other bits that were used to complete this project;

Avionix resin seats

Tamyia GBU-12's

Wolfpack GBU-38's and LAU-117

Hasegawa AGM-65

FA_18F_VFA_211_01.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_02.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_05.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_06.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_07.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_08.jpg

FA_18F_VFA_211_09.jpg

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FA_18F_VFA_211_11.jpg

This build went fairly smoothly, without much fuss at all. Although I did have some issues with decal placement that Darren Roberts was kind enough to point out. Fortunately I was at a stage where a piece of tape and a new set of decals was able to sort it out... I'll definitely be building more Super Bugs in the future, I'm think'n I need a Lo-Vis bird to go with this one eventually... I learned a lot during the course of this project about the Super Bug and while I definitely made a few mistakes along the way I'm pleased with the result... Don't be afraid to tell me what you really think... ^_^

Thanks,

Mark

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Janissary

Janissary

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Very nice build Mark. It is very cleanly done.

I am also working on the same model right now. One quick question, I know you used the seamless air intakes. They already seem to be white but did you paint them? If so, what was your technique?

I am using the kit's intakes and I am having a lot of trouble painting them. I already attached the halves together. My first attempt was to use latex white paint to pour and fill the intake up all the way to the top, let the bottom open, let it dry etc. That did not dry so well so I stripped that. Next, I airbrushed white primer, and then Tamiya acrylic gloss white but that dried very dusty. I stripped that down too. Now I am back to square one.

Can you tell me how you would paint them if you were to use the kits parts? I have not tried brush painting, but I would like to avoid if possible.

Thanks.

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Rampage55

Rampage55

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I am also working on the same model right now. One quick question, I know you used the seamless air intakes. They already seem to be white but did you paint them? If so, what was your technique?

I am using the kit's intakes and I am having a lot of trouble painting them. I already attached the halves together. My first attempt was to use latex white paint to pour and fill the intake up all the way to the top, let the bottom open, let it dry etc. That did not dry so well so I stripped that. Next, I airbrushed white primer, and then Tamiya acrylic gloss white but that dried very dusty. I stripped that down too. Now I am back to square one.

Can you tell me how you would paint them if you were to use the kits parts? I have not tried brush painting, but I would like to avoid if possible.

Thanks.

Thank you for the kind words Janissary,

I feel your frustration dealing with those kit intakes. That's why I was hesitant to begin my Super Hornet build until the Two Mikes intakes came out. They were a pleasure to work with and were a drop in fit. I dipped mine in future to give them a nice glossy look and glued them in place once the engine face was painted and attached. I had painted the front of the intake gray before I attached the resin intakes which negated the need to mask this tricky to reach area. Once in place I simply plugged the intake with tissue paper while I painted the rest of the model. When I pulled the tissue paper out I was really pleased with the result.

As far as the kit intakes go it sounds to me like you have tried all of the things I would've suggested, so I'm not sure if I'm the best person to offer you advice in this particular case, only to say...Ditch the kit intakes and go with the Two Mikes ones. Save your self the hassle. I know that's a bit of a cop out and I apologize. Perhaps if you pose your question in the "Jet Modeling" or "Tools n Tips" section where there are many other modelers more qualified than me to answer you question. Best of luck and I look forward to seeing your Super Bug... :thumbsup:

Mark

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geedubelyer

geedubelyer

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Hi Mark,

In the spirit of this forum I'd like to offer a little critique.....trouble is.......I could n't find any way you could improve this puppy! :woot.gif:

Just a lovely build all round. Even the photography is top notch. :worship:

Great job, thanks for taking the time to post up these super images. :nanner:

:cheers:

Edit* Callsign replaced with member name

Edited by geedubelyer
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doupnik

doupnik

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Mark

Freaking awesome build. :cheers: Always enjoy your weathering and cool loadout to boot. Really like the refueling probe out.

Another great build, very inspirational, but that's nothing new.

mason

Edited by doupnik
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Janissary

Janissary

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Thank you for the kind words Janissary,

I feel your frustration dealing with those kit intakes. That's why I was hesitant to begin my Super Hornet build until the Two Mikes intakes came out. They were a pleasure to work with and were a drop in fit. I dipped mine in future to give them a nice glossy look and glued them in place once the engine face was painted and attached. I had painted the front of the intake gray before I attached the resin intakes which negated the need to mask this tricky to reach area. Once in place I simply plugged the intake with tissue paper while I painted the rest of the model. When I pulled the tissue paper out I was really pleased with the result.

As far as the kit intakes go it sounds to me like you have tried all of the things I would've suggested, so I'm not sure if I'm the best person to offer you advice in this particular case, only to say...Ditch the kit intakes and go with the Two Mikes ones. Save your self the hassle. I know that's a bit of a cop out and I apologize. Perhaps if you pose your question in the "Jet Modeling" or "Tools n Tips" section where there are many other modelers more qualified than me to answer you question. Best of luck and I look forward to seeing your Super Bug... :thumbsup:

Mark

Thank you for the info mark. I have two more questions if you don't mind. What kind of filler/putty are you using in your build pictures? Is it the Mr. Hobby White putty? I think you are cleaning the filler before it dries too much with a q-tip dipped in alcohol, right? Also, did you rescribe the panels and deepen the rivet details or they are in their original depth? I feel like I will have to go over each panel line with a scriber (which I usually do) but the rivets will take quite sometime. Yours seems to hold the panel wash pretty well so I was wondering if I could get away without rescribing (my usual layers of paint are: Surfacer 1200 + Gunze acrylics + Future).

I again want to emphasize that this is a fantastic finish that I will be using as a reference! (hence my questions :))

Edited by Janissary
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Rampage55

Rampage55

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Thanks everyone!...The kind words are very much appreciated... :D

Mark

Thank you for the info mark. I have two more questions if you don't mind. What kind of filler/putty are you using in your build pictures? Is it the Mr. Hobby White putty? I think you are cleaning the filler before it dries too much with a q-tip dipped in alcohol, right?

Janissary,

I'm more than happy to answer your questions. lately I have been using Squadrons white putty that I thin with lacquer thinner to get the liquid putty type of consistency I'm after. I apply it with an old paint brush and a minute or two later I remove the excess with a little nail polish remover on a q-tip. Nail polish remover is basically a diluted acetone. For me this helps reduce the amount of sanding required and minimizes the amount of lost surface detail. Which is important for me because I'm awful at rescribing and I try to preserve as much detail as I can.

Also, did you rescribe the panels and deepen the rivet details or they are in their original depth? I feel like I will have to go over each panel line with a scriber (which I usually do) but the rivets will take quite sometime. Yours seems to hold the panel wash pretty well so I was wondering if I could get away without rescribing (my usual layers of paint are: Surfacer 1200 + Gunze acrylics + Future).

I wish I had the patience to rescribe an entire kit, unfortunately I don't. So, no I didn't rescribe much on this model other than a few panel lines on the tail section and a few at the nose join just below the wind screen. I have been using Promodeller's 'Dark Wash' and have found that if I spray just a light coat of a semi-gloss clear coat to seal the paint and then do the wash, but before I spray a coat of Future on for decaling, the wash stays in the panel lines better. I think that Future creates such a smooth surface that it's hard for a wash to stay in the panel lines unless they're deep. By increasing the surface tension a little with an semi-gloss surface as opposed to a glossy one, I have found that the wash works better for me. I hope that answers your questions.

Having just looked at your amazing F-15 build I'd say you have this model building thing pretty well sorted out though... :cheers:

Mark

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