Opinions wanted: Tamiya XF 76 for RLM 02

[toadwbg]

Tamiya XF 76 is WW2 IJN grey-green.

anyone else compare this to RLM 02? It looks a little lighter and greener compared to Gunze Acrylic RLM 02 to my mark 1 eyeball, but i'd be interested in other opinions.

[andrew.deboer]

What's wrong with XF-22 RLM Grey?

Edited March 20, 2010 by andrew.deboer

[Chuck1945]

What's wrong with XF-22 RLM Grey?

For me Tamiya's XF22 is much too dark.

XF 76 appears to be a pretty good match for RAF Grey-Green, but to me it is too green for RLM 02.

[toadwbg]

What's wrong with XF-22 RLM Grey?

IMHO XF 22 is far too dark and grey. I've mixed my own RLM 02 by adding Khaki and white to XF 22 to match my dwindling supply of Gunze RLM 02 with good results. But I'm looking for an alternative.

[Isaac]

Thats a really good match to the Gunze.

[tempestwulf]

Thats a really good match to the Gunze.

Do you use Gunze Mr Color Lacquers? I buy off ebay and can get most colours. User is Icanucan that i buy off and he has a good list. Nice Bf 109 Emil btw.

[toadwbg]

Do you use Gunze Mr Color Lacquers? I buy off ebay and can get most colours. User is Icanucan that i buy off and he has a good list. Nice Bf 109 Emil btw.

Gunze acrylics is what I matched to and was also used for the RLM 71 (another elusive color) When I gotta have some I usually get them from Luckymodel.

Here's a pic that's a little lighter and before weathering.

Edited March 20, 2010 by toadwbg

[Old Blind Dog]

This brings to mind a question I've had for some time now; why is Tamiya so cagey about naming their colors? Why can't they simply call it RLM02 instead of "RLM Gray," or RLM66 instead of "German Gray" or RLM76 instead of "Light Blue (Luftwaffe)?" I just don't get it.

Interestingly enough, while working on my Tamiya 1/72 Shiden "George" this last week, I discovered that Tamiya's XF-71 Japanese cockpit green is a near-perfect match to Polly Scale RAF Interior Gray Green! Barely an eye-lash of difference between the two. This will be good to know for future RAF projects once my Polly Scale is all gone.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

[is it windy yet?]

This brings to mind a question I've had for some time now; why is Tamiya so cagey about naming their colors? Why can't they simply call it RLM02 instead of "RLM Gray," or RLM66 instead of "German Gray" or RLM76 instead of "Light Blue (Luftwaffe)?" I just don't get it.

Interestingly enough, while working on my Tamiya 1/72 Shiden "George" this last week, I discovered that Tamiya's XF-71 Japanese cockpit green is a near-perfect match to Polly Scale RAF Interior Gray Green! Barely an eye-lash of difference between the two. This will be good to know for future RAF projects once my Polly Scale is all gone.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

In fact Tamiya recommends XF-71 for interior grey green for their new ultra deluxe 1:32 Spitfire Mark IX. So you are indeed correct, they are very close.

[caiotfjr]

This brings to mind a question I've had for some time now; why is Tamiya so cagey about naming their colors? Why can't they simply call it RLM02 instead of "RLM Gray," or RLM66 instead of "German Gray" or RLM76 instead of "Light Blue (Luftwaffe)?" I just don't get it.

Why Humbrol (and Revell and Xtracolor) still uses that crappy tinlet?

Why MM Acryl doesn't change its crappy formula?

Why Tamiya decals don't like Microsol?

Why Monogram likes to mould LG doors with wheel well walls

Why Trumpeter can't produce one really accurate kit?

Why? Why? Why?

:rofl:

[Chuck1945]

In fact Tamiya recommends XF-71 for interior grey green for their new ultra deluxe 1:32 Spitfire Mark IX. So you are indeed correct, they are very close.

I don't have the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire, so I can't verify what the instructions may say, but ... XF 71 is way too dark and green, not very close to PollyScale's RAF Grey Green interior color. XF 76 however is a very close match.

The lid colors of XF 71 and XF 76 are quite similar (at least the bottles I have), but the actual colors are considerably different with 71 being greener and darker and 76 lighter with more grey.

[toadwbg]

I don't have the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire, so I can't verify what the instructions may say, but ... XF 71 is way too dark and green, not very close to PollyScale's RAF Grey Green interior color. XF 76 however is a very close match.

and we are now off topic. As a side note, I picked up some Polyscale British Interior Green this weekend. I'm still trying to figure out how to airbrush Pollyscale.

[is it windy yet?]

and we are now off topic. As a side note, I picked up some Polyscale British Interior Green this weekend. I'm still trying to figure out how to airbrush Pollyscale.

In the past I airbrush lots of polly scale, with great results. I found that I needed to use polly scale thinner, nothing else worked. Others are able to use water, alcohol, and windshield washer fluid. I tried to use water just last month, with poor results.

[Chuck1945]

and we are now off topic. As a side note, I picked up some Polyscale British Interior Green this weekend. I'm still trying to figure out how to airbrush Pollyscale.

I had always used the PollyS airbrush thinner, but I don't think this is available any longer. The last few times I airbrushed PollyScale, I just used the same Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner I use for Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.

[Old Blind Dog]

I'm still trying to figure out how to airbrush Pollyscale.

I've been stockpiling (hoarding!) Polly Scale lately as I've gotten airbrushing it down to a science (at least for me) over the last three years. Here's how I go about it;

1. I thin a new 1/2 bottle with about 15 drops of Tamiya X-20 A (acylic) thinner; this should get it to the consistency of skim milk (always stir it, never shake--think opposite a James Bond martini!) For older bottles, add X-20 A as needed to achieve this consistecny. With some lighter shades, a lot of stirring may be required.

2. Before spraying, make sure the paint is warm. An ambient room temp of about 55 to 70 degrees with humidity of about 50 to 70 per cent is optimal. Too cold and the water-based paint will behave sluggishly; too dry and it will dry before it hits the surface, as well as on the a/b tip, too wet and it may puddle and take extra-long to dry.

3. Before spraying through my Badger 360, I shoot a color-cup-full of Windex. Wipe out the excess from the cup with a Q-Tip.

3. Spray at about 8 to 10 PSI. This allows you to get fairly close in.

4. After spraying, shoot several more cup-fulls of Windex

5. Follow this up with a lacquer thinner back-flush. (Guess what? I NEVER get clogging with Polly Scale!)

Recently, I also purchased some Badger #51-229 28 mm bottle adapters so I can spray directly from PS/MM bottles if I want to use the siphon feed. However, I greatly prefer using the gravity feed/color cup on my 360.

If the paint in the bottle appears "clumpy," filter it through a piece of nylon hosiery.

As always, experiment on a test kit BEFORE trying it on something you care about!

Any other ?s or problems, drop me a PM!

cheers

Old Blind Dog

Edited March 23, 2010 by Old Blind Dog

[toadwbg]

Thanks ol' Yeller! I'll try that. I have X-20 thinner.