nesher Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Hi everybody In order to reduce the amount of Razorback-kits on my stash (1xOtaki, 2xTamiya, 2xHasegawa), I decided to tackle one of the Hasegawa-kits: The instrument panel has nice raised details, so I painted it instead of using the decals: Compared with the Tamiya-kit, the Hase-cockpit is a bit less detailed but is still nice: This time I did use Eduard seat-belts :wacko:/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/> The pilots-office: Fuselage halves fit nicely... ...but in some areas, filler is needed: Edited September 26, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) A tip concerning to aviod fit problems with the wings: attach the lower wing halves first (...after inserting the cockpit, of course :wacko:/>/> ): Dont worry, this gap is the lesser of two evils :wave:/>/> Otherwise, you would end up with a nasty step between these two parts: See what I mean? Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Modeler7 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Nesher, you are going to think I am a real jerk but I have crossed this path before and am just trying to help. Here are some photos of that area behind the pilots headrest on a Razorback. Take them for what they are worth and build your plane as you see fit. I really liked your P-40 and would like this one to be as good if not better. Trying to help. You can tell me to bugger off if you want. This shows that area painted OD like the fuselage. I have not seen color proof the other way except for a solid silver aircraft not having paint back there at all. I am sure someone can come up with a photo somewhere but it was not as standard practice to paint that area the interior color. Here is my P-47D-5. It is hard to mess up the Tamiya. http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/builds/t...tam_61086.shtml The Hasegawa one is a bit harder to build in my opinion. Good luck and I will be watching this build for updates. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) Nesher, you are going to think I am a real jerk but I have crossed this path before and am just trying to help. Here are some photos of that area behind the pilots headrest on a Razorback. Take them for what they are worth and build your plane as you see fit. I really liked your P-40 and would like this one to be as good if not better. Trying to help. You can tell me to bugger off if you want. This shows that area painted OD like the fuselage. I have not seen color proof the other way except for a solid silver aircraft not having paint back there at all. I am sure someone can come up with a photo somewhere but it was not as standard practice to paint that area the interior color. Here is my P-47D-5. It is hard to mess up the Tamiya. http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/builds/t...tam_61086.shtml The Hasegawa one is a bit harder to build in my opinion. Good luck and I will be watching this build for updates. Hi Modeler7 First of all, thank you for these great pictures! They are very much appreciated :D/>/> After seeing them, I realize that a lot of modelers, artists and authors are getting misled by the fact that the OD unterneath the canopy wasn't that exposed to the elements and therefore looked a bit like the interior color. Concerning the silver aircraft, you are right as well... guess I did some sloppy research. But now, I found some really good pictures in Warren M. Bodies book "Thunderbolt". So I definitely don't think you are a jerk! :coolio:/>/> glad you looked at my thread before I took some hardly reversible decisions :rolleyes:/>/> Enough of words now... Taking care of all the gaps... Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) After some careful treatment, the engine doesnt look that bad even OOB... Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Uncool Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 In order to reduce the amount of Razorback-kits on my stash (1xOtaki, 1xTamiya, 2xHasegawa), I decided to tackle one of the Hasegawa-kits: Hi there, Nesher, bloke! Noooiiiceee... the Jug's always been one of my favourite WWII Air Force subjects; me likes this version a helluva lot more than the later bubble canopy version. :D Say, Nesher, mate; is the Otaki P-47 by any chance the same kit as the one reboxed by Arii? Cheers now, lad Unc² Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hi there, Nesher, bloke! Noooiiiceee... the Jug's always been one of my favourite WWII Air Force subjects; me likes this version a helluva lot more than the later bubble canopy version. :D Say, Nesher, mate; is the Otaki P-47 by any chance the same kit as the one reboxed by Arii? Cheers now, lad Unc² It is, m8... it is Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brewer Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 The Hasegawa Razorback is a good kit. When I did my WIP a while back everyone asked me why I built it and not the Tamiya. My answer was the same as yours, thinning the stash ;) Great work so far! I had the exactly same gap on the bottom of the fuselage, and you handled it nicely! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wgpavan Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Wow!!! I am finishing one myself (a Miss Mary Lou) and I went through exactly the same problems!! And it is funny, but I corrected the gaps exactly the same way. Except for this part, the kit is very good. Good modelling. Cheers, Wolney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thunder57 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 It looks like that everybody has the same problem with fitting wings and fuselage. I make a mistake while building, because first I put wings together so I recive a big gap which I have to fill with styrene and after that using a lot of putty to correct this and engrave all lines again NASHER congratulation on perfect job. This is how it looks on mine after sanding Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lenny Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Looking good. I built that kit last year and had the same problem with the belly gap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JMan Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Man I really need to get me some WWII planes. I really love all the detail that goes into the cockpit. I really like how everything was done with manpower and not computers like today. There is one plane on SprueBrothers that was so awesome it was a 1/32 P-51 Mustang I think it was from Trumpeter and boo hoo I just couldn't afford it, but maybe one day I can do a WWII warbird like all the rest of you! Thanks for showing I will be following this one intently! Jeremy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Wow!!! I am finishing one myself (a Miss Mary Lou) and I went through exactly the same problems!! And it is funny, but I corrected the gaps exactly the same way. :D/>/>/> Except for this part, the kit is very good. Good modelling. Cheers, Wolney It looks like that everybody has the same problem with fitting wings and fuselage. I make a mistake while building, because first I put wings together so I recive a big gap which I have to fill with styrene and after that using a lot of putty to correct this and engrave all lines againNASHER congratulation on perfect job. This is how it looks on mine after sanding Good to see that I'm not alone with this problem :P/>/>/> Let's go on... That's how the leading edge looks after sanding: Anyway, ther is still a lot of "ruminant sanding" to do... Next, I will have to get rid of some nasty sink marks on the rudder: The windshield gave me a bit ot a headache. At the beginning, there was a huge gap, but after a lot of sanding, dry-fitting and swearing (and the use of Miliput), it looked acceptable: (nope, haven't corrected the wrong color on the area behind the cockpit yet :woot.gif:/>/>/> ) To be honest, Im looking forward to build the Tamiya-Jug :pray:/>/>/> Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wgpavan Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Nasher, If you didn´t finish the engine, add some cooper wires, it gives a very nice touch and it is not hard to do so. I did it in my engine. Cheers. Wolney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tempestwulf Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Another fine WIP by Nesher. I watched your build of the PLAAF (??) P-40N and she was a beaut, look forward to this one too. How did the milliput go around the canopy? I have to admit this's something I haven't had the brass to tackle yet, guess I don't wanna risk messing up the clear parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) No pictures today since I don't want to bore you ... At the moment it's sanding, rescribing, swearing, filling the wrongly scribed lines (due to ignoring the rule "scribing needs guiding"), rescribing... Well, I alredy opened the box of the Tamiya jug............................. :wub: Nasher, If you didn´t finish the engine, add some cooper wires, it gives a very nice touch and it is not hard to do so. I did it in my engine. Cheers. Wolney That looks very nice, Wolney. Call me lazy, but I think that I'll leave it as it is on this bird. But I still have 3 Razorbacks an one Bubbletop to build and will definetely consider to do this. Another fine WIP by Nesher. I watched your build of the PLAAF (??) P-40N and she was a beaut, look forward to this one too. How did the milliput go around the canopy? I have to admit this's something I haven't had the brass to tackle yet, guess I don't wanna risk messing up the clear parts. ;) I did use the Milliput in the black/white boxing. This one is acrylic, therefore you won't mess up anything. It was applied ant the smoothed with a damp Q-Tip. The only thing to keep in mind is that this stuff is white! If the gap you try to fill is to wide, your efforts will be clearly seen through the windshield! I hope this won't be the case here... Edited March 19, 2011 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) Sorry posted the same response twice. Edited March 19, 2011 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wgpavan Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 No problem Nesher. It was the first time I did it, and believe me, it is a lot easier than mask the canopy. Man I hate to mask canopies. And don´t worry about this detail, your model is awesome!! Cheers, Wolney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) After almost a month here another update. Filling, sanding and re-scribing is done :D/>/>/>/> The first touch of color is on as well... But one thing after another... Remember the sink marks on the rudder? Here you see what I meant. That's how the rudder looked like after treatment (anyone else got that problem with the Hasegawa jug?): The jug has some complex panel lines which were lost during the sanding process. Thats how I made a template to restore them: Fill the inside of the area bordered by the panel line wich a black pen... ...cover it with a strip of tesa-film and transfer the outline on it... ...place the tape on a piece of plastic sheet and cut it to shape... here is your template! Gear doors with some riveting, painted and lightened... Ready for the primer... Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Primer is on... Preshading done... The effect is visible, but to weak for my taste... ...so some shading with lightened base color was applied... Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brewer Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 You're like me, prefer the "exaggerated" pre/post-shading :) Looking great so far! Keep it up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) Thx brewer :)/> The first layer of OD is on... After several thin layers... The pre-shading is barely visible on the pics, but it's there: Now, the same procedure as on the underside... Base color lightened up with dark yellow: ...then toned down with several thin layers of the base color to blend in the patchy look: The olive drab looks strange on some of the pics, but that's because of poor lighting while taking the pictures Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) I just finished mine, a bubble top from 201 Escuadron with Mexican Air Force and US Markings. But I didn't have any problem with the front wing to fuse gap, but did have to deal with this nasty join. Also, if you haven't already noticed, watch out for the funky line on the top of the cowling. There's a pretty good divet right there at the top that needs attention. Your Jug is looking GREAT so far! Edited April 14, 2011 by blunce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
achook-achook Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Excellent work in progress. I am planning to build the same aircraft but different kit. Looking forwad to see more. Cheeers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nesher Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) The blending process didn't turn out well! A closer inspection revealed that I had not properly thinned/mixed the base color. The result was kind of a "polka dot" finish Okay, within every backlash lies the chance to do it better... For the red areas I applied a white base coat... then comes red... The result: The invasion stripes are the next thing to do... Edited August 30, 2013 by nesher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.