Paolo Maglio Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 here is one BIG problem with this kit: radome is not a part of his own but runs up to the first panel line of the fuselage! Be sure not to miss this and take your time to putty the joint line!!! Also check this active pics I made: http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1049948 http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1049946 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pollie Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Good catch Paolo! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spike7451 Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Also,the rear of the BOZ pod has been modeled as an unloaded version,however the rear face is wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share Posted June 28, 2014 thank you both! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jynski Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I'm going to go with your fix. Some guys over at britmoddeler are hacking the noses off and shortening them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Corey Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I'm going to go with your fix. Some guys over at britmoddeler are hacking the noses off and shortening them :jaw-dropping:/> I'm sorry, I'm a little slow... Just for clarification, FILL that scribed line rather than CUT like the guys on britmodeler? Am I understanding your post correctly? Thanks Corey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 I'm sorry, I'm a little slow... Just for clarification, FILL that scribed line rather than CUT like the guys on britmodeler? Am I understanding your post correctly? Thanks Corey If you look at the two active link I posted above you will see that the radome needs part of the fuselage to complete its dimension. So I think there is no need to cut the last part of the fuselage, you just need to fill the joint line between the fuselage and radome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 I don't know if RAF or Luftwaffe used a different one but full opened rear for Italian BOZ pod looks correct to me... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragonlance Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Paolo, can you check, your pictures show that Revell gun opening inserts are too low. Complaint on BM was that they are too far back. Vedran Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Thanx for the heads up, paolo :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spike7451 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I don't know if RAF or Luftwaffe used a different one but full opened rear for Italian BOZ pod looks correct to me... It's not, Look at the picture I posted,the rear opening of the kit BOZ is a complete circle compared to the unloaded RAF one also posted,they don't have the correct hexagonal shape for the flare pack,which slots over the two rods & is fixed in place by a series of captive bolts.The inside face looks correct for the contact plate tho & is angled correctly.Trust me,I've loaded more flare packs to BOZ pods than you've had hot dinners.... The BOZ pods used by RAF/GAF/Italian/RSAF are basically the same apart from the GAF also use a BOZ pod that is angled to port for use in place of the Skyshadow/ECM pod that's normally carried there.in the RAF we would fit a ballast BOZ which has the flare pack faired over in place of the Skyshadow/TERMA. Merv (RAF Tornado Armourer) Here's a slightly better picture of the rear of the kit pod; Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Paolo, can you check, your pictures show that Revell gun opening inserts are too low. Complaint on BM was that they are too far back. Vedran the same I notice, what can I do? For the time being I trust my photos, unfortunately don't have a tornado handy to check In August will go to RAF HENdon and I will ask if I can take some measures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Thank you so much Merv, it is more clear to me now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinxter13 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Thanx Paolo, Merv, that's all great and good stuff for sure, BUT when do they arrive at Sprue Bros?. I'll even put in a pre-order if it's available. I doubt if Michaels will carry them, Hobby Lobby is a possibility. Edited June 30, 2014 by #1 Greywolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) note: it is possible that I'm wrong as hell and those at Britishmodeller are right. :woot.gif:/> At this moment I only have my photos to check and no dimensions, sorry. Edited June 30, 2014 by Paolo Maglio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Paolo, Thank you very much for posting this. Great active pics as well. Going by these, the gun inserts do look too low on the kit. Will have to see how hard of a fix it is. Again, many thanks on the pics. Edited July 1, 2014 by Crazy Snap Captain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paolo Maglio Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 you are truly welcome! As a side note I would like to point out that the active photos posted in my first message were shot with a 85mm lens, from what I know this means that it is impossible that the radome appear longer than it actually is due to a distortion effect made by the lens (like wide angle lens do). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markmarples Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Well ive just finished building my first on and.... it looks like a tornado Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chek Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Well ive just finished building my first on and.... it looks like a tornado Nicely made model and neat special scheme Mark. Is it just me, or do the tops of the intakes look a bit prototyp-ish like below: when they should have a smooth curve like like below: Not that it's an insurmountable problem (I've got 2 kits in transit to me right now). But it's a surprising error if true. Edited July 1, 2014 by chek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Slartibartfast Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Wow, that looks like a Vigilante intake. I wondered why they cut back the inboard side, it was because of fuselage airflow pattern! Duh. Your photo makes it blindingly apparent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chek Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Now that the kits have arrived, I can confirm that Revell have got the inner curved lip of the intake correct. The curve on the topside from lip to outlet however seems understated and will need some help, perhaps best achieved by separating the top surfaces from the spine piece and bending to shape. The fin base bulge has also been mis-interpreted and will need filling and shaping between the existing bulge and the fin leading edge under the cooling intake. Perhaps a bit of old fashioned modelling skill is all that's required, or a Paragon-style resin insert will be needed. All in all it looks superb, with the bane of swing-wing kits - lack of detail on the fuselage sides due to the horizontal split - adeptly overcome by the clever breakdown of individual side panels. Careful dry fitting, paying due attention to gluing surfaces and general constructional awareness will be required to build it as the designer intended. The nose dimensions seem good - shapewise at least as good as the corrected Italeri nose - with the cannon port insert being slightly too far rear and low. Not a problem on an ECR machine or GR4A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K V Aaltonen Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) here is one BIG problem with this kit: radome is not a part of his own but runs up to the first panel line of the fuselage! Be sure not to miss this and take your time to putty the joint line!!! Also check this active pics I made: http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1049948 http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1049946 Thanks for cathing that. But I don't think it is a problem. I rather see it as a feature. And a good one if I may add (I may represent a minority in this issue though). Personally I think that the radome joint is one of the most difficult areas in many jetfighter-kits. If you dont have a very good fit, it can easily need filling and sanding, and rescriping. And it's (at least for me) hard to get the joint line perfectly rescriped over glue and putty in this very visible area. Instead, a joint that is not suppose to be a visible line, is always rather easy just to fill. I hope that kit manufacturers in future would more and more prefer joints, that are not in places of panellines. Edited July 4, 2014 by K V Aaltonen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonbryon Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Instead, a joint that is not suppose to be a visible line, is always rather easy just to fill. I hope that kit manufacturers in future would more and more prefer joints, that are not in places of panellines. You are not alone. I've always maintained joins on panel lines are far more difficult to deal with. Jon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
a4s4eva Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 You are not alone. I've always maintained joins on panel lines are far more difficult to deal with. Jon Agreed, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spike7451 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thanks for cathing that. But I don't think it is a problem. I rather see it as a feature. And a good one if I may add (I may represent a minority in this issue though). Personally I think that the radome joint is one of the most difficult areas in many jetfighter-kits. If you dont have a very good fit, it can easily need filling and sanding, and rescriping. And it's (at least for me) hard to get the joint line perfectly rescriped over glue and putty in this very visible area. Instead, a joint that is not suppose to be a visible line, is always rather easy just to fill. I hope that kit manufacturers in future would more and more prefer joints, that are not in places of panellines. I've been thinking about this,trying to rack my brains as it's been a few years since I worked on Tornado's,but I'm sure the kit is correct,as the radome is a double hinged part arrangement,the forward section (the radome) allows access to the radar assembly & behind that is another hinged part that allows access to the avionics behind the radar set. I know it's an F-3 but is shows what I mean; http://zarco-macross.wdfiles.com/local--files/wiki:panavia-tornado/0361-02-2-7.jpg HOWEVER...in this photo below you can clearly see the join line that the OP refers to as needing to be removed,so going by that picture,the kit is correct & the seam to the left of the black line would be the access hinges. http://www.jetartaviation.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/tornado-gr1-za359-avionics/tornado-za359-nose-radar-bay-3.jpg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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