Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) I couldn't resist, as soon as it arrived I move everything off the bench to make room, I'm sorry for the Mig-25, but life it's a bad girl. I, know I have issues, I love deltas. Clockwise from top left: Eduard Mirage IIICJ modified with an Atar 9C resin engine, AMK Kfir C2, Kinetic Kfir C7, Kinetic Kfir C1 built as early production w/o canards, HobbyBoss Mirage IIICJ converted to IAI Nesher. My last shipment of mirages plus two I had, now I'm waiting for Wingman to release the B/D conversion set, I promised myself I was going to wait!, I know I can do it :)/>/>/> Some books I use as reference form my Argie-related projects, 'Latin American Mirages' it's a great book with loads of ideas for us modelers. Even when I'm happy for having a modern long Mirage III kit, certainly there are issues with kinetics offeing, one of the biggest is the moulding quality, flash and sinkmarks are present in small-parts sprues, luckily not in the main parts. I'm so exited that decided to build two kits in parallel, one is going to be a IIIEA and the second a Mara/Finger, it's a shame that kinetic did not include the Dagger/Nesher/V nose, I wonder if there's Mirage VP nose?. Sorry about the crappy pics, took them with my phone. Whiteworks Office. Kinetic did a good job in here, quite adecuate for the scale. I'm not sure about the accuracy of the IP's but they look the part even with as little attention as I gave them, you won't see much once in place. Edited April 25, 2015 by Der Grüne Punkt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Kinetic's deltas builds FAST, there's two places where you need to be extra carefull, intakes and the joint between the main fuselage and the lower wing part, if you pull that off you're mostly done.a I left the intakes outer parts for last since I don't really enjoy sanding and filling that. Kinetic took a different path here, the part breakdown is different even with the Kfir kits, it not bad this break up seems to be easier to buid but I would been easier if they give the cannon muzzles as a separate part. Sourced from a Kfir kit I took the C2 nose, I think, which is perfect for a Finger, IAI finger is a post-Malvinas update of the IAI Dagger. Really odd, seems there's a diameter difference between Mirage IIIE and Kfirs, some more adjustment work should be done I got this far, I'm out on holidays, but I took them with me so I can play with them at nights. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 very nice work at your Mirage factory!! :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cr7driver Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Very cool. Keep us updated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Very interesting duel build. Will be following along to completion of both builds. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dmanton300 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Pretty sure that spacer on the underside of the nose insert is unnecessary. The real Kfir nose has a step at the rear, so the Kfir nose SHOULD be deeper than the matching fuselage part to create that step. http://jetphotos.net/showphotos.php?aircraft=IAI%20Finger%20IIIb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Pretty sure that spacer on the underside of the nose insert is unnecessary. The real Kfir nose has a step at the rear, so the Kfir nose SHOULD be deeper than the matching fuselage part to create that step. http://jetphotos.net/showphotos.php?aircraft=IAI%20Finger%20IIIb Yes and no, kfir's nose it's conical with that triangular addition that olds the pitot tube, that's the only part that souldn't follow the fuselage round contour, and for that to happen using kfir parts that insert is needed, otherwise I'll have to fill that area. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 After the holidays in Argentina province of the Sun and Wine, resumed working on my Mirages. By no means I think is a bad kit, but I really think that Kinetic give a step back in terms of ease of building, to my eye they over engineered the kit, I think it's easier to remove a panel than having to make more complicated a place that's already complicated to fill and sand, specially when you don't have Tamiya's precision, if compared with Kfir this model it's somehow messy, in the spirit of making it more modular they made a mess with the part break up, historically mirages are tricky planes to build, but kinetic made them harder, I'm not saying it's a bad kit but you certainly cannot build it as relaxed as the Kfir kit you need to pay a lot of attention to what you're gluing, I'm paying the consequences of being over confident the parts fit. On most mirage kits, you need to sand that down quite a lot, otherwise you get an awful step on the underwing. Aweful fit, it's been a While I got to use that much filler on a model :deadhorse1:/> I should have been more careful. This small insert did the trick, the rest was filled with a mixture of CA glue and mineral talc, that combination once sanded gives a nice finish and it's better to scribe than pure CA. The upside of this story is that Mr.Surfacer can be sanded with paper soaked in IPA so plastic doesn't damage, cool isn't it?. Since I'm already in the mud, I'll get this one done This color scheme will look good on it Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Nice landscape. Province of Mendoza? I'm also struggling with my IIIEA. After much testing I decided to first glue the top of the wings but only the area that slope to the fuselage and then join the rest of the wing to the bottom. Is somewhat reconforting that I'm not the only one 'dealing' with it, be aware that for the EA you need to use the E1 part below the cockpit and the early EA (Malvinas) does not have any antennas on the spine: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Interesting that Mr. Surfacer, which is a lacquer based primer/sealer can be polished out using IPA as a wetting agent. I would think that it wouldn't have any effect one way or the other. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Interesting that Mr. Surfacer, which is a lacquer based primer/sealer can be polished out using IPA as a wetting agent. I would think that it wouldn't have any effect one way or the other. Joel I seriously doubt is lacquer based, it does not affect plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I seriously doubt is lacquer based, it does not affect plastic. I use Mr. Surfacer/Primer 1,000 as well as Tamiya Gray primer all the time, and they're both lacquer based products. I cut them with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Will test out cutting Mr.Surfacer/Primer with IPA and see what happens. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 I use Mr. Surfacer/Primer 1,000 as well as Tamiya Gray primer all the time, and they're both lacquer based products. I cut them with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Will test out cutting Mr.Surfacer/Primer with IPA and see what happens. Joel It accepts lacquer thinner yesm, but I don't think it's lacquer based, if you spill that kind thinner on plastic it will melt it for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 It accepts lacquer thinner yesm, but I don't think it's lacquer based, if you spill that kind thinner on plastic it will melt it for sure. The Tamiya lacquer Thinner is very mild, much more so then the usual store brands. I've never had a single issue using it. I even use it to thin Tamiya Acrylics as it breaks down the paint particles much better then their X-20A, which I use when every airbrush job other then exterior surfaces. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) I used the E4... :bandhead2:/>/> By luck I will need only to scribe the two panels. :)/>/> It's pretty easy, I have a book where is more clear but this gives you an idea: http://www.fuerzasaeronavales.com/?p=80 Edited February 20, 2015 by Der Grüne Punkt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Uncool Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Pretty sure that spacer on the underside of the nose insert is unnecessary. The real Kfir nose has a step at the rear, so the Kfir nose SHOULD be deeper than the matching fuselage part to create that step. Uh-huh... Same thoughts here, D. But lemme post just a couple of piccies in order to further elaborate on it. Here we've got a piccy of an IAI Finger. On it ya're able to clearly see the disticntive step which is present on the lower nose radome where it butts against the lower forward fuselage Dmanton300 is talkin' 'bout. Then, this is a piccy I took from Luis' build, edited upside down just to make the gazin' at it a lot easier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Great work, you mirage crazy you :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Great work, you mirage crazy you :D/> Well... look how's taking the viggen crazy Thanks Janne, I can't stop using this silly emoticons Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 This old guy is starting to get confused. From the picture that was posted, there is supposed to be a step on the bottom between the nose cone and fuselage. From your last picture, I can't tell if it's there or not? Or do I have it wrong, and there shouldn't be a step? :dontknow:/> Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 This old guy is starting to get confused. From the picture that was posted, there is supposed to be a step on the bottom between the nose cone and fuselage. From your last picture, I can't tell if it's there or not? Or do I have it wrong, and there shouldn't be a step? :dontknow:/>/> Joel Joel, worry not!. There's a step but the conical part of the nose should follow the contour, that's why the insert was the correct thing to do. This two pics are from the book I'm using as reference, and this are the pics used to decide to make the insert, pay attention to the shadows. I would say that I made the right call and got the shape pretty good. Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I forgot to properly answer you my friend Nice landscape. Province of Mendoza? Good catch!, how did you know? I'm also struggling with my IIIEA. Is there a WIP somehere?, I missed it otherwise. After much testing I decided to first glue the top of the wings but only the area that slope to the fuselage and then join the rest of the wing to the bottom. Interesting idea I have six more kits, I'll give it a shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Or do I have it wrong, and there shouldn't be a step? /> http://www.airplane-pictures.net/photo/246006/c-420-argentina-air-force-israel-iai-finger-iiia/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Got guys. Thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Time for an update Slowly but steadily I continue my works in what now is a triple build. Most my attention this time went to the MIIIDA, I 'lied' in the cockpit so it seems that actually is going on there instead of the nothingness that heller gives OOB, I used two of the instead unused IP from the Kinetic kits to both positions, they have absolutely no relation to the real thing but they're so much better than heller's parts. I decided to use two excellent NeoMega seats to add even more interest to the cockpit area, now even when I owe you the accuracy the cockpit looks much better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary F Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Hi DGP. On the MIIIDA, is the basic airframe you used all Heller or some combination of the Kinetic and Heller (not counting the seats and IP's you mentioned)? thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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