Airbusteacher

My only experience with using food coloring on a model was to make colored nav lights for a 1/48 F-4. Turns out you can match the density of the color pretty well by adding it to white glue. In the case of the blue/green navi light, I could never get that really dark shade and still have it translucent. But the food-coloring/white glue trick worked like a charm.

The little plastic dealies that the powder comes in. Rinse 'em out and save em to mix paints, or even for smaller resin casting jobs. They really work great. However.....for MM paints that have been thinned with MM airbrush thinner....the little cups will break down after a single use. They get soft and I don't reccommend more than one time. But...they're cheap!!!! :(

At least you finish things.....I have lots of projects in the middle of construction.... <_<

Seriously....it's more than difficult to tell from a posted pic. Post processing/scanner settings can make it seem right whenit comes out all wrong. SOmeone said something earlier in a different thread about photos. There is a reference somewhere. When I did my MiG-29 before any accurate colors came out, I mixed my own. I came to find out that in the former Soviet Union, there was wide variation due to the diffuculty in getting the right materials. Toward the collapse of the Communist regime, not much could be found. I would guess that what you thin is right....is right. Unless someb

"Pinky, are you pondering what I'm pondering" "Oi think so, Brain....but how do they get the peanuts in those little shells?" :huh:

I like that idea, gonna have to try it. What I've been doing is wetsanding the whole area that got rescribed then, while still wet and running water over it, run a toothbrish along the length of the new seems and that cleans out any sanding gunk that got shoved in. It seems to leave a very crisp line.

Burnt Sienna, Burnt SIenns, Burnt Sienna...... ...that is all..... bzzzzzz *click*

Chris, I never tried Floquil thinner....except with Floquil paints. Tried mineral spirits with MM and Laquer thinner....lousy results. I have since learend though that laquer thinner comes in more than one type. What brand name of LT are you using...would loive to save $$ from the MM stuff. air

Andy, This sure looks frustrating for you. From my perspective now that I see the photo, it almost looks as if the paint is too thin. MM paints dont' thin very well with anything but their particular thinner. I use their paints almost exclusively and they don't work well when the brush is dirty, the pressure is too high, or the wrong thinner is used. Try that high dollar MM airbrush stuff. In fact, it says on the can that even regular Testors thinner is not recommended for airbrush use. I thought this a marketing ploy until I actually tried it and got crappy results. Guess there m

Andy, you may need a new "nib"...the sleeve at the tip that the needle slides into. If there's any damage, you will notice it right off in the performance of your airbrush. I've had it happen twice and both times I thought it was the paint, the thinner, the air pressure. Nope....'twas the nib or nozzle if you will. They are replaceable and fairly inexpensive. HTH

Here's one possible solution. It's both simple and tricky at the same time. Get some clear styrene and drape it over the hole where the windscreen/canopy would normally go. draw where the edges are, cut it out and affix to the model. Then, use very small strips of oh, say, scotch tape to replicate the framing, mask and paint them with flat black on very low pressure. HTH.... just an idea.

Think of all the money you're saving by not using any paint. Make sure the hole in the bottle at the top is clear of obstruction. A slight vacuum will result if it's blocked and no paint will com out. HTH

I normally clean things "subsonically" <_

Lo-tack tape (wide variety) found at art supply stores...or "frisket paper" as it's known. Similar stuff, lo tack and you can easily cut it with an x-acto ka-nife.

That "white" is actually kinda grayish, or off-white. It just looks really brilliant next to the Dk Blue. -------------------------------- Correction..... According to D&S p 35, the F4U-1's (birdcage) had FS36440 on the underside... .....-1A's used flat white....so have at it. My bad.... :(